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        Life in rural France - Food - Friends - Wine - Cheese - Comments

Welcome to French Food Focus. The name describes the intent of this blog. I'll focus on food and because I live in rural France the stress will be upon French food. Not that I will limit myself to food only. There are numerous posts concerning life in France, comments on life in general and, certainly, opinions about anything that strikes my fancy.
I welcome your comments and promise to publish all of them good & bad so long as they're not offensive, pornographic or rude. 
 

This is our village. Our house can be seen to the left of the picture.    We've decided to downsize. You can go to this website for full details:
www.campdelmas.com. OR
If you'd like a vacation in France we rent out part of the house as a gite. Have a look here:
www.camp-del-mas.com.

 

Comments to: yankinparisot@gmail.com
 

 

 

 

 

    

Archives 2009

 

This Month

 

December 2009

Finishing off the Hamper

 

Yesterday we worked on the hamper and got most things into it. We were, however, still a few things we wanted to add and some bits & pieces we needed so off to Villefranche this afternoon to do a bit of shopping.

Here's what we added:

 

 

Picked some jumpier berries this morning & packed them into an old spice jar.

These are wonderful with roast meats, especially beef.

 

 

Corn nuts. A recent discovery here in France.

Hadn't had these for a long time until recently. Grew up eating them in California.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A couple of favorite cheeses which will rest in the cave until we're ready to go.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A couple of dry sausages. One fancy from the Ardeche and one good old saucisson sec.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was lucky enough to find these neat tins for my biscotti. Ideal & after packing there were only a few left that wouldn't fit in. Well, somebody had to eat them didn't they?

We were ready to pack. The walnuts & hazelnuts went into the bottom of the hamper.

 

This seemed to work pretty well. Then with some careful arranging everything else just fit in.

 

 

 

 

 

 

There's not a lot of spare room, but believe me that's more by luck than judgment.

Hopefully the family will enjoy the contents of this hamper as much as we enjoyed putting it together.

May your Christmas be as nice and as much fun as we expect ours to be.

 

Filling up THE Christmas Hamper

As I think I've said before we are going to England to celebrate Christmas with Louise (Linda's step-daughter), the two Richards (young & oldish), Bean (AKA Elizabeth), Martin and Margret (Aunt). It really will be a celebration as we haven't seen them for quite a while. As an added bonus we'll get to see Dominic (Linda's step-son), Helen, Jaz & Lily (grand daughters) We're really looking forward to it and we we've agreed no presents this year we decided to put together a Christmas hamper to take with us.

The idea being that the hamper should be filled with edible goodies either from here in France or, better yet, thing that we have made or grown ourselves. It has been a bit of a challenge, but great fun. I'd highly recommend making one up for yourself especially if you have child labor available. Here's what's going to be in ours: (so far that is, we may just add to it.)

The hamper itself: 

 

I was using it to store old computer stuff, but this is a better use I think.

 

The first small item for the hamper is this bag of chocolate covered walnuts. Not made by us, but made by Julie who lives just up the road. She sells these and donates the proceeds to a charitable cattery.

Not pictured will be a can of comfit de canard, nor will the bottle of sherry.

Likewise no picture of the dozens of biscotti that I've made. There are three kinds; traditional lemon & fennel and fennel & flaked almonds plus a Christmas type with candied fruit, ginger, allspice and nutmeg. These last seem to be my taste tester's favorites. They'll make it to England if I can keep them hidden well enough. No picture because we haven't decided how to package them yet. We're going to Villefranche tomorrow & will look for something suitable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A couple of bought items. Capes are very popular around our area and there are lots of them if you know where to look. (I don't! Unfortunately) They're wonderful in soups when mixed with commercial white mushrooms. I don't think I could cook without Herbs de Province. Its my absolute favorite herb mix.

 

 

Linda's plum sauce. Wow! This sauce is delicious. Its an oriental style sauce, fabulous with duck.

I picked the plums for her from a neighbor's tree; we're not sure exactly what variety the plums are, but they're great.

I also helped out with the stirring as the recipe called for two hours of constant stirring. Stirred with one hand & held my book with the other.

It was worth it.

 

 

 

 

 

My lemon marmalade.

The story behind this is that for THE wedding this summer Denise, our decorator par excellence, bought dozens of lemons to use as decorations in a bowl under the wedding cake. Very clever and very beautiful. They worked a treat.

Frugal soul that I am I couldn't bear the see the lemons go to waste. So, I made lemon marmalade. (I made lemon juice ice cubes as well which worked very well.) Normally, I'm not all that good at making jams, jerry's and the like, but this turned out pretty well.

 

 

 

Dried rubbed sage.

This is from our garden. Our wonderful sage bush resides in a bed just outside our bedroom window. It seems to love being there and we love it being there as it's aroma is wonderful.

Linda keeps it in check as it has a tendency to grow like made. She cut off a bunch of stems a while ago & we hung them in the cave to dry.

Today I striped & rubbed some & put them in a jar for the hamper. They're great with pork especially!

 

 

 

So far the only non-food item in the hamper are these lavender bags from Linda.

Lavender grows well here and we have a large border of iy behind the house by our back patio. This year Linda harvested quite a lot of it and dried it to make up these small bags. They're pretty and of course smell good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We'll fill in the spaces in the hamper with a mixture of walnut and hazelnuts.

Both come from trees in our garden. We've been getting a good crop of walnuts for a number of years, but the hazelnut trees have just become mature enough to produce fruit and we got our first really good crop this year.

Our only problem is that we have be quick to get the nuts before Rupert gets them. He adores walnuts and eats them very carefully, but gets a bit fat each fall. Fortunately, he eats them one at a time so while he's eating one I can gather quite a few and put them out of his reach.

And, yes, he's now discovered hazelnuts as well. I don't think he likes them as much as he does walnuts (harder shell & more work for less nut), but if there aren't any walnuts available then hazelnuts will do.

So far that's it for the hamper. We think its pretty good and we've had great fun putting it together. I'll post more when its packed and we've figured out how to package the biscotti.

More later. Have fun over the holidays!

 

 

Yet another walk in the woods

 

Another beautiful morning in rural France. Bright sun, temperature around 40 degrees F, dogs eager what else could we do but take a walk. Yes, you heard me correctly; I did say dogs. Plural. As in more than one.

We have a visitor. Her name is Bee and she's a 15 year old Jack Russel terrier. Here's her picture.

 

She belongs to our good friends Jean & Rob who have hived off to New Zealand for about 6 weeks. She's a little delight, smart, willing and no trouble. Of course Rupert's nose is out of joint a bit as he's used to being only dog. They're slowly sorting themselves out.

Bee's used to being able to get up on furniture in her house, but that's not allowed here, but she very quickly got the idea. In any case she loves the morning walks. We were afraid that at her age she might not be able to keep up or would get tired, but not a bit of it; she loves the walks.

Bee is slimming down with the extra exercise and Rupert is getting a bit fat as he steals Bee's food at every opportunity. We're on to him now so that will stop.

Back to the walk. We decided to try Causvielle this morning as its a beautiful walk and wouldn't be too muddy as we've had several days of nice dry weather. Also, they don't hunt over there too often. Off we went.

 

There's this little cross by the side of the road where we park. Someday I'm going to have to explore the origin of these crosses. There are a lot of them scattered around the countryside. They're not that old. Most of them dating from the later half of the 19th century.

Anyway, off we went.   

 

This is the beginning of the farm track we start on. It goes off across the countryside with nice views on either side. Further down it there's a large 'potager' in the summer where some local ladies grow vegetables for market. They have a terrific crop of tomatoes with lots of varieties. Talk about heritage tomatoes? Get them here.

 

 

 

At the end of this bit of track you can go left on PR2 a local path. ( The PR stands for Petit Randonee or little walk. These are local and you can go into the town hall of almost any village in France and get a description of the ones in that commune. This is as opposed to the GR's or Grand Randonees which are national and go all over the country. I just knew you were dying to know that!)

Anyway, we don't take PR2 instead we go right and follow another farm track like this.

 

There goes Linda.

Rupert's undecided. He hates it when we (the pack) separate and can't decide who to be close to. In this case I was hanging back so I could take this picture.

Don't know where Bee is.

 

 

 

 

We go up the track for about 1/2 mile then turn right onto the path shown on the right.

This normally a nice track, but it can get pretty muddy in parts so many times we walk through the wood parallel to the track to avoid the mud.

This morning Linda went a bit further off along an animal track which was interesting. (these woods are full of deer who make lots of tracks.)

 

 

 

 

 

Also there are some nice views across the fields.

 

Here's part of a little barn left over from when they put up the hay in small shelters near the fields, these were the days before baling machines & tractors.

 

From this field you can look across to see the hamlet's of Neuvialle and Pech Bernu.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anyway. onward ever onward. We have cows, but don't ask me why they're in the bush instead of the nice grassy fields.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By now we've turned right again so are on the third leg of our rectangular walk.

Here's Linda again with Bee on the side.

 

Just before we took our final turn to the right there was an actual icy patch. We'd seen a bit of frost, but this was the first ice.

 

 

 

Over the top of the little hill and down the track we went until we reached the paved road again.

This had taken nearly an hour so was just a nice length for a morning walk. We enjoyed it and, of course, the dogs were delighted.

 

As we reached the paved road both dogs started looking off to the right.

Bee looking.

 

Rupert looking

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's why. In our absence the hunt had arrived.

 

 

Here's everybody looking.

Ours is the blue car in the far distance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Notice that all the cars are white. It seems to be de rigueur for hunters to have a white car preferably a small van.

In any case our timing was good as we hadn't seen the hunters or their dogs.

Next came clean up time which Rupert hates.

 

 

He's not really snarling, it only looks that way.

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, here's Bee getting here belly cleaned. She seems resigned to it.

 

 

 

That's it! Our walk this morning.

I hope you enjoy reading about it as much as we enjoyed the walk and I enjoyed writing about it.

As I've often said life is tough here in rural France, but we somehow put up with it.

Lucky us!

 

 

 

 

Last Month 

 

November 2009

 

Thanksgiving Prep & 'The' Dinner

 

Here we go , into the full preparations for Thanksgiving. Fortunately, we're in good shape as as much as possible of the prep work has been done.

I went and got the turkey on Friday. A monster, 24 lbs dressed! Absolutely beautiful.

 

 

He really is big. First thing I cut out his backbone. I then removed the leg/thighs, chopped off the wing ends and the lower legs. The main body was now ready.

Below you can see him without the leg/thighs or wing tips.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next I boned out the leg/thighs. This is easier to do than you would think. It just takes a very sharp paring knife and some patience.

 

You can see the result below. This will make carving so much easier.Believe me. It will also allow me to cook both the white meat on the breasts and the dark meat to perfection.

Below are all four thighs trussed, stuffed and ready for the oven. You may recall that I bought two extra thighs from the supermarket as normally there's never enough dark meat to go around. Also, I stuffed the leg/thighs with the same forcemeat stuffing as went into the main bird.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the turkey all ready for the oven.

You can't see all of the stuffing underneath, but it there.

The turkey will roast in a 180 degree C oven for roughly two hours or until a meat thermometer reads 160 degrees F. The leg/thighs will be cooked to the same temperature, but it will take less time by quite a bit.

In this case I'm cooking them in a separate oven as I don't have space in my big over for the turkey, the ham, and some extra stuffing .


Next I got the ham ready. This was fairly easy as my friend ROB (ex-butcher shop owner) has come down and tied up the ham shoulder for me. All I had to do was put it into a baking pan and smear on it's coating of Dijon mustard, dark brown sugar and cloves.

 

Looks nice doesn't it.

Since it had been brined then boiled it didn't need a lot of cooking. About the same time as the turkey as it turns out.

Nice coincidence that.

 

Here's a couple of more pictures of the bird & the ham in the oven.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We started with Linda's delicious curried pumpkin soup. This recipe is always a hit. The Brussels sprouts were ready for steaming.

Here are some more food pictures; bread, stuffing, sweet potato puree and home made cranberry sauce.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That's it for the food pictures. At this point we got too busy to take any more.

At the left you can see the two tables all set up and ready to go. The chairs are a real mishmash of our own, some borrowed and some plastic from the patio. Still its a nice looking set up if I do say so myself.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's just one of Linda's table decorations. Foliage from the garden plus a few Clementine's.

 

I haven't forgotten the wine. A number of our guests brought bottles so we had a bit of a mélange, a very nice mélange actually. In addition we had red & white from our source up the road. The white was chardonnay and the res was a Minervois.

We also had three pumpkin pies from friends as well as two carrot cakes that I'd made. Given all of this food we skipped a cheese course.

I can't end this without a comment on our Serving wenches/ scullery maids. They were all friends from England who's flow in for the weekend. (One was Linda's sister Olivia) They did a superb job of bother serving and cleaning up. They can come down any time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally, here's Rupert in his party clothes. A very appropriate bandana given the holiday.

 

We had a great time doing this meal. It was wonderful to see so many of our friends and to share Thanksgiving.

We do have a lot to be thankful for; we have our health, we live in a beautiful place, we are blessed with good and numerous friends and most of all Linda & I have each other.

We sincerely hope that your Thanksgiving is a wonderful as was ours.

 

 

 

Getting ready!

 

We're very busy getting ready for our early Thanksgiving lunch this coming Sunday. Things were hectic enough even before my beloved little reliable Opel Agila crapped out this week. Its been perfectly reliable for nearly nine years so I can't complain, but it could have picked a better time. The mechanics can't get to it until next week so we're down to one car.

This afternoon Linda is off the Rodez to pick up three lady friends from England who are staying for the weekend. One of them is here sister who will be put to work as a saus chef. The others will pitch in as well I'm sure. As soon as they get back its over to the vineyard (see links for details) to pick up the turkey. Sara has promised me a big one. The bigger the better with 25 people coming on Sunday.

When I get back I'll deconstruct the turkey. (think there's a recipe somewhere in the bowel of this blog.) and then make the turkey stock. A friend will be dropping off some cranberries she bought in Paris for me this week and I'll go ahead & make my cranberry sauce ready for Sunday. So, not too much to do; of course I went to market this morning for bread, cheese and Brussels sprouts, hang a new painting, moved the TV, washed the car windows and so forth. Tonight we're all going up to our friends Ruve & Michael's for dinner. Nice!

Tomorrow gets very busy. Linda & the ladies are off the Albi for sightseeing and shopping. I'll let you guess as to which has the higher priority. I'll get on with cooking chores. I'm making two big carrot cakes (friends are bringing pumpkin pie & chocolate mousse for other desserts.) I'll get the ham out of its brine and start soaking it in fresh water, changing the water every so often. I need to get my already deboned extra turkey legs out of the freezer. Later when the ladies are back we'll prep vegetables, make stuffing and get ready in general.

I have to bring down extra tables and chairs from the abri. I think we just barely have 25 chairs, mostly plastic, as well as two great folding tables we bought years ago from Sam's Club and brought over with us.

Sunday morning gets really busy what with turkey roasting, ham boiling then roasting, veggie cooking, etc, etc. I'll try to take pictures as I go but no promises as once I get to concentrating on the cooking I tend to forget the pictures. I'll do a write up and full menu in any case.

Keep your fingers crossed and wish us well.

 

 

I always think of carrot cake as an American thing. I may be wrong as most 'American' things have origins elsewhere, but I haven't seen it anywhere else other than in America. In any case I served it too a group of friends a week ago. These were my golfing buddies and their wives. Since they put up with my abysmal efforts at golf and the wives put up with 'we boys' wasting a day giving everyone a lunch was the least I could do.
I won't bore you with the details of the rest of the meal, but I made a Carrot cake for dessert. This went down well and today as we were playing yet another round of golf one of the guys asked me for the recipe. Now, contrary to many cooks I know, I'm always flattered when anyone asks me for a recipe. I take it as a compliment. I said yes. Having done so I realized that I've never shared this recipe with everybody who reads this blog. So. like or not here it comes. ( Note: The original version comes from a lady by the name of Pamela Reisse in Winnipeg, Canada. I've modified it a bit.)

PS: The ham is still brining away quite nicely.

PPS: I've done this post in a dark color for ease of printing.

 

Sugar & Spice and all things ....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The  above is just a partial view of the herb & spice stand that appears at our local markets. I call her the 'Herb Lady' and her knowledge seems to be encyclopedic in both French and English. She is in Caussade on Monday's,  Villefranche on Thursday's  and St Antonin on Sunday's. She seems to stock any herb or spice that you can think of.

When we first moved to France I couldn't understand why the big Supermarkets had such a poor selection of herbs & spices in a country renowned for it's cuisine. A few trips to market told me why. They just can't compete with the market stalls. Our Herb Lady ,great though she is, is not unique. You will find her equivalent at most of the larger markets in France,

In any case Linda needed Garam masala for a curried pumpkin soup she is doing for Thanksgiving. (We're having our Thanksgiving meal next Sunday for reasons too complicated to explain) So we decided to go to St Antonin market today. Now normally we don't go to that market because for much of the Spring, Summer and Fall its inundated with tourists. You can't find a place to park and the crowds make shopping difficult. This time of year, however, its fine. Filled with only locals and the prices have returned to normality. We knew the 'Herb Lady' would be there so we could get the Garam masala plus I wanted some bay leaves and we needed some coriander seeds.

Off we went, the market was pleasantly busy and our Herb Lady was there. She was doing good business as the French housewives stocked up so we waited our turn. Turns out that she was out of Garam masala. Not to worry! She would make some up for us.

Our came a good sized plastic container. In went a variety of spices; I spotted ground coriander, cumin, fenugreek, mustard & ground cloves. I'm not sure what else went in as she was too quick for me. She was doing this by the scoop full. So much of one then so much of another.  She had a quick look at a very full and very tattered notebook then fetched an electric coffee grinder from under the counter and filled it with mace leaves. She then gave it to a helper to plug it in and grind up the leaves (she has no electricity on the stand) He was given very detailed instruction as how how to do the grinding. While he did that she packaged up our other herbs. When he came back the now ground mace got added to the container and everything got a good stir. Then the lid went on & everything got a very good and long shake. Voila! Instant Garam masala. It smelled wonderful.

Our 100 grams cost 5.50 Euro.

We got the rest of our shopping, mainly fresh vegetables, including a 5 kilo squash for the soup had a coffee and headed home.

As I write this the squash is in the oven baking before being added to the soup. This truly is a wonderful soup and well worth the effort to get the Garam masala.

Besides who can not enjoy buying food this way? Its a pleasure to buy from someone who knows what they're doing and enjoys doing it. Long live the Herb Ladies of this world!

 

 

How do they do it ?

 

We went to lunch today at one of our favorite local restaurants, Seglar. I've written about them before , I think, somewhere on this blog.  You always get a good meal there, cheerfully served, in decent surroundings. The fixed price daily menu is 12 Euros.  That's about $18.00 at current exchange rates. Not a fair comparison as the dollar is way too weak and the Euro way over valued. A fairer value would be around $14-15.

In any case here's what we had. Linda started with a delicious soup & I had homemade dry sausage (salami like) We then had a very nice seafood mélange ( other choices were a salad or pate) We both choose steak as our main course (choices were Merguez or  Toulouse sausage) the steaks came with braised endive and french fries. Next came cheese, a small cheese board with a choice of three cheeses, serve yourself. Finally dessert, Linda had apple pie & I had lemon pie. (there were other choices, but I can't remember what they were. Included was bread and 1/4 liter of wine each. All of this food was good, well prepared, hot and fresh.

How do they do this kind of meal at this price? And make money? We can't quite figure it out. Seglar are not exceptional. There are a number of other restaurants in our immediate area who do similar meals at similar prices. We find it amazing.

We tried to price out the lunch we had done for friends earlier in the week. There were seven of us. We had mushroom soup followed by roast pork with potatoes, baked squash and green beans, followed by a simple cheese course followed by carrot cake. So, no expensive ingredients. Leave out the wine as I'm sure the restaurants can buy more cheaply than we can. By our accounting we spent 7 Euros per person on the meal. That doesn't count our labor, gas & electricity, insurance, the cost of the premises or any other overheads.

At best our home made meal cost at least 10 Euros per person. So....

How do they do it for a mere 12 Euros. And seem to prosper. We don't know, but we certainly do enjoy the results. Maybe we should just give up cooking and go to there restaurants every day.

If you think you have an answer please let me know.

 

 

Local Market

 

We went to one of our favorite markets the other day. This one is in Limogne where they have food market on one day of the week and a truffle market on another day during the season. The truffle market is small, nothing like the famous Lalbenque one, but at least in Limogne you have a chance to buy a truffle even though you're not one of the pro's. In any case we were after food not truffles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are a couple of views of one end of the market. In the left picture you can see Linda buying. She's the lady with a red coat & a basket over her shoulder. Here's a better picture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lots of chrysanthemums as they are the traditional flower to put on the graves of loved ones.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also saw about the very last of the local strawberries.

Although you can't really see it the sign at the right of the picture not only has the price of the strawberries, but their origin as well. This is a sensible French law that says that you must identify the origin of all fresh meat and vegetables.

In some of the local butcher shops they take it a step further and actually identify the local farm where the meat was raised.

We just wish they'd import more British, Argentinean or American beef. They local beef is not much to our taste. The pork, veal, chicken and duck however, are superb.

 

Everybody lines up at the cheese van. He has a pretty good selection. I am particularly fond of a local cheese called 'Gaperon'. Its delicious, but only produced at certain times of the year.

He also sells superb butter, straight from the farm. And, of course, he sells a whole variety of little Cabecou which are small goat's milk cheeses. The older they get the stronger they are. Very young ones are great with bread and jam for breakfast. Really old ones are very strong and hard; you suck them instead of chewing. Just the thing as you tend your sheep.

 

Here's a good look at one of the vegetable stalls. You will note that there is no fancy layout of the produce.
That happens more in the summer to attract the tourists both foreign and domestic. Much, but not all , of what you see will have been grown locally.

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the bio shop. They have an amazing range of products including fresh vegetables.
We get great muesli here.

 

 

 

Roast chicken is popular and they also do quail and ham as well as duck leg/thighs.

 

There are also a few live plants to buy should you wish.

 

 

 

What would market be without an olive stall? Here's one of the two that come to Limogne every week.
As you can see there is not only a variety of olives on offer, but also nuts and a few herbs.

 

 

AND, we're just getting into oyster season. Not many yet, but as there was a holiday coming up we saw these on the market.

 

 

 

 

I'll finish off with some nice looking squash. Pretty aren't they? And very good to eat.

Linda makes a wonderful squash soup with cumin. Its about time she did one, but today's mission was fresh vegetables for a big batch of veggie soup.

We stopped for coffee at the cafe then made our way home for soup making.

I hope you've enjoyed this tour of an ordinary market in a small French town. This is the normality of shopping here. There are much bigger markets than Limogne, but we can get everything we need here. I like going to Caussade as well (I've written it up on this blog as well), but Limogne is actually more convenient. We sort of flip between the two. Villefranche is very big, but parking is difficult. As we have friends coming we're going down to Albi in a couple of weeks to try their newly refurbished indoor market and (the real reason) for the ladies to have a look at the boutiques.

 

October 2009

 

A Walk in the woods

 

Rupert and I go for a walk almost every morning. The other day it was particularly beautiful so I decided to take the camera and try to show you a walk through our favorite woods. Its about a 5 minute drive from home along a dead end road and through the hamlet of La Badie. (I used to work with a chap named Brian Labadie, this was in Silicon valley many years ago, but I've always wondered if his ancestors came from here.)

 

Here we've just parked and are starting down this woodland track. As you can see the farmer uses it to get to some of his field in the woods.

Further down the track and Rupert is on the alert for deer. Every so often he gets a hot scent and is off. The deer are in no danger as he's the noisiest hunter I've ever heard. Yips & more yips plus some barking. The deer are long gone, but he enjoys the chase.

 

 

 

 

 

 

On we go. The trees are gorgeous.

                                                                                                         

The sun is warm and its utterly peaceful. I'm enjoying my walk and so is Rupert.

 

 

 

 

   The woods truly are beautiful.

 

 

 

 

We even get a view of our village through the trees. If you know what to look for you can just see our house on the left.

On we go along our track.

 

 

Our little road now turns into a walking path and we see the no hunting signs.


This is good as I now don't have to worry about Rupert being mistaken for a wild boar. Despite his International Orange collar I do worry a bit.

Hunting is a great local sport and one that is necessary as otherwise the deer and the wild pigs would get way over populated. Last year they culled over 500 wild pigs about ten miles away from us. Still, they can get a bit trigger happy at times especially after lunch!


Here Roop's checking out the water trough. Its amazing how the farmers manage to run water through the woods in the most unlikely places. You can just see the black PVC pipe in the lower foreground.
Even though it seems wild little land is wasted in this area. The little clearings will be grazed by the cows. The woods will be harvested for fire wood every few years. And, of course, the woods provide habitat for the deer and the wild pigs which in turn supplement the winter larder of the local farmers. It been this way for a long time and who is to say it should change? Certainly not me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have a seat and the rocks that the hunters have piled up and contemplate the view across the meadow. Then its onwards;

Now we walk back up and finally reach the paved road again. We've spent about 45 minutes doing our walk and both Roop and I are content.

In addition to the trees and woods we've spotter some
other nice things. I particularly liked these moss covered stones from an old wall.

 

 

And, naturally, we saw a variety of mushrooms and other  interesting flora. Here are just a few pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still hanging in there. Don't know what kind of flower it is, but I admire its persistence.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What walk around here would be complete without a curious cow?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And so we headed back home where we tried to decide what to do with the crop of Japanese quinces and the little apples. To pick and preserve? Or not?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope you have enjoyed our little walk. Rupert & I certainly did. We're so lucky to live in a place like this.

 

 

What kind of cook are you?

 

My wife and I are two very different kinds of cook. I don't think this is a gender things, its just that there are many many different styles of cooking. I'm not going to be judgmental about this I'm just curious. It goes without saying that my cooking style is the best. How could it be otherwise? No, seriously I'm interested in other people's style of cooking and equally importantly why they cook the way they do.

In this case I'm using style to refer to the methodology of how one cooks. Do you always use a written recipe? Are you a 'tidy' cook? Cleaning up as you go. Or one who uses every pot, pan , knife, etc. then cleans up afterwards? Are you 'ad hoc'? Sort of making up the recipe as you go. Or are you a strictly 'follow the recipe' type? Since the proof is in the eating I think that all of these styles can work equally well and, of course, most of us are probably some combination of what I have described above.

By the way I'm addressing myself here to strictly home cooking and home cooks. Restaurant cooking, catering and all the other professional styles of cooking are something I'm not qualified to comment on. Again, the proof is in the eating.

My wife's style is a combination of pretty strictly following recipes and using every utensil our kitchen has to offer. She chooses good recipes and she cooks them well so its a delight to eat her food.
When she's finished preparing a meal, however, the kitchen looks like a disaster are. Used stuff all over the place. BUT, she's a great cleaner upper. Once finished she will wash, clean, scrub, tidy up and put the kitchen back to sparkling rights, as clean as a pin.
She cooks this way because she's comfortable with it. She's more focused on what comes next in her recipe than on keeping her work are a tidy. Our kitchen is big enough to accommodate this.

I'm almost the opposite. I only use recipes as a guide line (unless its new complicated dish & then I'll follow the recipe closely the first time I use it. After that, all bets are off.) and these days I often just make up dishes from my imagination. The results vary; rarely a disaster, but not often a real gem.
I like to clean as I go. I use the inevitable slack periods during the cooking process to tidy up, to wash pots, to clean our bowls, to pick up and put away peelings and other debris and so forth. To me that makes the final clean up so much easier.
I just like to have a reasonable neat area to work in and by cleaning as I go I can reuse various implements if I need to. I guess it just appeals to my sense of organization.

As you can see Linda & I are 'chalk & cheese' in terms of cooking style. We learned a long time ago that there were only two ways we could cook without coming to blows. (joke! it never got quite that bad) The first way was just not to cook together. So Linda will cook the whole meal or I will or sometimes we will cook sequentially, she'll do her dishes, clean up then I'll do mine or vice versa.


If we must cook together we have a Chef's hat. Whomever wears the hat is the boss and the other person is the minion and must do as they're told. This includes both the style as well as the substance of preparing the meal. This works for us - barely! There are usually quite a few gritted teeth and compressed lips, but we manage. A real test is coming up at Thanksgiving when we are having dinner for 21 people.

I'd be very interested in hearing about your cooking style and/or how you and a significant other cope in the kitchen if your styles are very different. Its a fun topic in general, but one that people can get quite heated about.

 

 

A Simple Sunday Supper

 

I promised to get off the rare political stuff an to get back to the main theme of this blog so that's what I'm doing. If you haven't read my little political polemic, but would like to you can go here. If you'd rather read about our simple supper tonight then read on.

As it was Sunday and Linda, Rupert and I were on our own and the friends who had asked us to have lunch with them had begged off due to illness we decided to have a lazy day. Thus, other than writing my political post for the blog we took it easy. An easy walk around the lake for Rupert & I, cruising eBay for Linda and a nap for all of us. (well, the clocks changed didn't they. Would you believe jet lag? No, I thought not.) I managed to watch the end of a European Tour golf tournament which was pretty good. The winner had to birdie the last hole with a 18 foot putt to win. Anyway;

Dinner. After a very light lunch. (Fruit & cheese for Linda & cheese rye crisps  and tomato for me) we were hungry, So, what for dinner? We started with a big bowl of popcorn while Linda talked to her sister on the phone.
Then I made some french fries from a frozen packet by roasting them in the oven. I sweated some chopped up leek in butter and I gently fried a couple of duck breasts being careful to keep all of the fat for later use. We had this with Linda's wonderful Chinese plum sauce. Not too bad for a lazy Sunday supper.

Oh! I also made a very simple apple pie. We haven't eaten it yet, but here's how I made it. I used some pre-prepared crust from the freezer and I peeled, cored and sliced up some apples which I mixed with some lemon juice, cinnamon, ginger and nutmeg. These gently fried in some butter while I made a custard. When ready I put the apples into the pie crust and poured over the custard . Into a hot oven for 20-30 minutes by which time the crust was browning. Out and now its resting while I write this, Linda watches some saga on TV and our dinner settles.

Hopefully the pie will be good. Don't think we have any ice cream. but there is some cream in the fridge.

 Life is good when you just keep it simple and surround yourself with loved ones. Hope your Sunday is as good as mine has been.

No more politics, but I still say: GET OUT!

 

 

GET OUT!

 

Get out! Get out now" Of Afghanistan that is. I can see nothing, but disaster for the United States and it's allies ahead.

I promise that I'm not trying to nor will I turn this into a political blog. Its just that some issues are so important and that I fear that my country is going the wrong way so that I have to speak out. I'm not egotistical enough to think that my voice will make much difference, but at lest I can exercise my right to say what I think.

I had been thinking about Afghanistan and the futility of our war there for some time. Of course its much in the news what with Obama trying to make a decision. Then this week Linda met a lady who has worked for the Red Cross for many years and has done several long stints in Afghanistan as well as in other troubled areas of the world. She's just back home for a much needed rest. Her opinions reinforced mine. Mine are based upon my experience in general without any actual on the scene knowledge of the country. Her opinions are based upon actual in country experience. We both agree:

 

GET OUT!

Why get out? Its the wrong war to be fighting  and its one that we can't win. The longer it goes on the worse it will get. Here are just a few points:

  • No body has subjected this area to anything other than tribal rule for a very long time. The British couldn't do it at the height of their empire, the Russians couldn't do it when they were strong and there's no reason to believe that we can do it.
    Imperfect and backward though it may seem to we in the Western democracies the Afghans' seem to prefer their ancient system of tribal rule. That's their choice.
  • Who are we to say that the Taliban are wrong? They are at least natives of the country. Admittedly its very hard to agree with their extreme form of Islam and the methods they use to enforce it, but are the alternatives any better? The so called 'national government' that we are trying to put in place is corrupt to its core.
  • Yet again we in the West are backing a government that's dead wrong. The crowd that we're backing no matter which one wins the 'election' are nothing but a gang of crooks. They're backed by the drug cartels. Democracy? Peoples rights? If you believe that's what this crowd will bring I've got a bridge to sell you.
  • The war on terror? Fighting the Taliban in Afghanistan isn't going to win that. In fact the more we interfere there the more recruits the terrorists gain. By all means use drones, special forces, assassins and whatever means work to fight the terrorists. But that's not at all the same thing as trying to build a very reluctant Afghanistan into a Western democracy.
  • Why waste lives both those of the Western troops and the Afghani people in a futile effort to do what? Where is there any National interest of the Western countries at stake here? Suppose the West actually succeeds in establishing a kind of democracy in Afghanistan. Do the terrorists go away? Does the threat diminish?  No, they just move their base and recruit more martyrs.
    Lets do away with the macho thinking which says we can't back down. I'm sure the Generals are sincere in their assessments that more troops will do the trick. They were just as sincere in Vietnam.
  • Obama made a good start with his Cairo speech in trying to convince the Muslim world that the West is not their enemy, but how can the billions of Muslims believe the West is sincere so long as we continue to fight in Afghanistan?

I say; GET OUT! Get out now! Get out before we waste more lives, money and political capital on a wrong and hopeless cause.

By all means try to help the Afghan people with humanitarian aid, by all means fight the terrorists by any means, but quit this ridiculous belief that we can somehow win this conflict. We can't.

No more rants for a while, I promise.

 

The Last of Summer's Bounty

 

Fall is most definitely here. We've had two minor ground frosts now, we've had the first wild mushrooms (see previous post) and as the English say; "the nights are drawing in" . We can't complain as the weather has been great, sunny day with temperature in the high 60's/ low 70's, lots of sun and crisp nights. Still, its always a bit sad to see summer depart.

Yesterday I harvested the last of our tomatoes and the last of our basil. Both have hung in there pretty well. The tomatoes are in a sheltered spot where they're protected from the frost, but still get full sun from mid morning until late afternoon. So both the little red variety and the yellow cherries have survived pretty well.
The basil has been amazing. I harvested it a couple of weeks ago then pureed it with a bit of olive oil and froze it into 1/2 cup portions for salad and pesto making this winter. This year, however, its actually come back pretty strong with lots of new leaves. In fact we've even had a self seeder which is growing in the middle of  our gravel courtyard. Its doing well and is about 6" high. I don't have the heart to pick its leaves yet.

Anyway, with a nice handful of tomatoes and a goodly amount of basil I just had to do something. On the theory that with wonderful fresh ingredients like these simple is best I did the following:

  • I cut the tomatoes in half or quarters depending upon size.
     
  • I mixed the red and yellow tomatoes together in a bowl.
     
  • I tore the basil into nice small pieces and mixed them in with the tomatoes.
     
  • I then cut pieces of brie into bite sized chunks. (I'd let the brie soften, but not to the point of being runny .) This was also mixed in with the tomato & basil.
     
  • I poured over a mild vinaigrette (white wine vinegar, olive oil & just a tad of Dijon mustard), sprinkled on salt & freshly ground pepper.

I mixed the whole thing thoroughly, but gently and let it sit out at room temperature for about an hour just to let the flavors blend a bit.

It was delicious, simple, but delicious. A nice way to taste the end of summer's bount

 

High Hopes

 

Its sometimes funny how things happen. I've been thinking about mushrooms lately and was going to post on how they're coming into season, but events today overtook all that.

We had our first serious rain two days ago. A nice crash bang thunderstorm followed by a steady rain. That got me thinking that mushrooms wouldn't be far behind. Then yesterday on our way to Montauban I noticed that two of the very locally plugged in  vegetable shops were advertizing cepes for sale. I also spotted a good selection of grubby vans parked along the low road to Caylus. The low road goes along a ravine which has good places to find cepes; the locals know exactly where. I've never gone into those woods during the cepes season as they're pretty protective of their spots. Cars with non-local license plates have mysteriously turned over onto their backs.

Anyway I was thinking about all of this and hoping we might see some field mushrooms when Roop, Linda & I went for our walk this morning. Low & behold as went went up the path through the woods Linda spotted the first mushroom. Not a field mushroom, nor was it a cep; but it was big. As we looked we realized that there were lots of them all over the place. Didn't know if they were edible or not, but we decided to pick a couple on our way back and look them up in our mushroom books. So, we finished the walk seeing lots more of them and on the way back we ran into a hunter. After exchanging greetings we asked him if he knew anything about these mushrooms. He did; he said they were edible, but not very tasty and that they might give you an upset stomach and flatulence. Needless to say we were disappointed.

We picked a few anyway just to check out and I decided to get the camera and go back to take some pictures. Thus, here is what they looked like.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's Roop with a mushroom next to him. This is to give you some idea of the size of these things. They were pretty big, I'd say some weighed over two pounds.

 

 

 

 

Some were quite orange in color.

 

At home I took some close ups and cut some open.

 

 

Interesting looking specimens. We couldn't find them in our book. I've been doing Google searches, but no luck in identifying these guys so far. If anybody knows please let me know.

We certainly won't take a chance and after Michael got ill last year after having the mushrooms he found pronounced safe by the local pharmacist we won't trust that source of information either.

If I don't see some field mushrooms soon I'll just have to buy some cepes  from the local shop in Caylus.

Still, we had fun with it. And it was sort of interesting that we should spot these after all of thinking about the subject.

 

 

I'm getting pretty frustrated by this baloney!

 

Grrrr... It really is getting to me. Regular readers will recall a post I did just a couple of days ago about 'strangers on the shore' . In that I was going on about not trying to put oneself forward as some sort of guru on things local when you really didn't quite know what you were talking about. Yes? Well my favorite know it all, she of the prophylactic blog, has done it again. A post that purports to be on local food and cooking specialties that is rubbish.

We can start by looking at her lead picture of duck breast (magret) which is way overcooked. Perhaps in the states or somewhere they may cook duck breast this long, but not in this area of France, believe me.

She shows Alliade in the picture then much later gives a recipe for it.  The proportions are wrong to begin with, secondly it really should be made using a mortar & pestle (although I'll forgive her the food processor) and where's the parsley? Parsley is a key ingredient to Alliade.

Nice store bought fois gras and fig chutney except that I would very seriously doubt that she actually made the chutney. Or if she did not here & not recently. Firstly figs have only just come into season and the chutney needs time to mature. Secondly it hasn't rained around here until yesterday, Thursday. So where when did this get made?

She skipped over the cheese course which should have been a very important part of the meal and would have been much discussed at any French dinner party.

And, finally, well there is a good patisserie in St Antonin where she could have bought the tart, I'd almost bet money that she didn't make it herself. Besides the last thing that would have been served with that kind of meal this time of year would that kind of apple tart.

See what I mean? It looks good and sounds good, but is about as authentic as a three dollar bill. EGO? Wanting to impress ones friends who have never been here? I don't know, but why gild the lily? Just do a post on the way things really are without all of the BS.

Sorry, I shouldn't let this nonsense get to me this way. I guess if someone wants to spout rubbish its not my place or job to correct it. I do find it hard, however, when they're talking about a place that I love.

 

 

A rare somewhat political post

 

I don't often post about political topics because that's not the intent of this blog, but I just can't resist a few words about the debate that's going on in the states about health care. I doubt that I have the solution, but I can at least try to clear up some misconceptions about health care in Europe, well at least in France and the UK.

First let me state some alarming numbers. The USA spends about 14% of its gross national product on health care. France, Germany and the UK all spend less than 9%. That 5% difference is a huge amount of money that the USA could be using for other purposes. And remember that in the European countries there is 100% coverage, nobody is left out. In the states millions upon millions of people aren't covered. Nobody in Europe can lose their home or their saving due to a serious illness. Yet, many US commentators like to scare people with false comments about 'socialized' medicine in Europe, lack of choice and waiting lists.

Most Americans get their health insurance through their employer. The last time I worked our company was paying nearly 12% on top of wages to provide the health insurance for our employees. The employees also contributed another 4-5%. In Europe there is one plan and everybody pays the same percentage of income for it up to a maximum. In addition most European countries have private 'top up ' schemes. In the UK the most widely used is called BUPA. (In my last UK based company we provided this as a free fringe benefit to all employees.) Here in France you can subscribe to a 'mutual'. Ours costs about $150.00 per month for Linda & I. The point being that if you have both the government scheme and the top up you will never pay for anything medical, no doctor's fee's, no hospital bills, no prescription charges. Pretty good I think especially as you get older or if you have small children.

So, what I think is a better system at a lower cost AND one that leaves no body out. How do they do it??

For one thing they cut down on the bureaucracy . For another they're aren't insurance companies making large profits. (BUPA and the 'mutual's' are non-profit organization.)

Here's an example. I want to see Dr. Jean, my GP. I don't make an appointment I just go down to his office during his opening hours. I wait my turn & then I see him. He makes sure that he sees everybody who turns up. I may have to wait for up to an hour or I may only wait for ten minutes, but I do get seen that day. OK, now the DR. has seem me (in my case normally to check out my blood pressure & if it OK to get another prescription for my medicine) I give him my 'carte vitale' (medical card) and I pay him 22 Euros, the standard charge for a visit to a GP. Within 3 days I am reimbursed directly into my bank account; 18 Euros from the government and 4 Euros from my Mutual. That's it. Dr. Jean has no receptionist or other staff. In other words no overheads to speak of.

Now lets imagine that there's really something disturbing going on with me so Dr. Jean wants me to see a specialist or the have some labs tests done or have a CAT scan or MRI done, whatever. He will call a specialist himself directly while I'm there to make an appointment for me. I've had the specialist appointment as soon as later that day, but never longer than a day or two. For lab work I can either just go to the lab and wait my turn or call them and make an appointment, same thing with CAT or MRI scans at the hospital. In any case I've never had to wait for any length of time. For these services the providers keep my data and are paid directly by the government and/or my mutual. Note also that I get the results directly; after all they are my x-rays or scans or tests aren't they.

Going further. Late last year I had a stroke. Fortunately it was minor and I've fully recovered. The point is the care I received at our local hospital. Admitted immediately no questions asked. The cardiologist examined me within 15 minutes of arrival even thought it was 9 o'clock in the evening. I had a room for two even though at that stage I was the only occupant. Next morning I has a CAT scan and the specialists came around with the results of that plus the results of all the blood tests from the admission procedure. They kept me in for three days just to be on the safe side. During this time I had nice nurses to look after me and my only complain was the food. The doctors had me on a no salt no fat diet which was very bland.  Cost? No one penny. There was never even a bill presented. Nor was there any charge for the follow up visits, tests or the medications (they had me on about 6 different pills)

Now, the point of all this is not that the USA should adopt the French system. Its too late to make that kind of radical change. We (you) need our own system. But the point is that:

  • The French system gives excellent care for far lower cost. As do the health care systems in all other European countries.
  • We Americans need to change our system to something that works better for EVERYONE at lower cost.
  • We need to get the profit motive out and a caring motive in.
  • Compensate those who give the care (Doctors, nurses, technicians & so forth) NOT administrators and insurance companies.

Folks this should be simple, but the politicians are making it complicated. Don't stand for it!!

 

 

Strangers on the foreign shore

 

I've  been ruminating about being in foreign countries. Foreign in the sense that they are not the country we grew up in and whose culture and language we know and understand instinctively. This is a topic I've thought about a bit since I have lived "on the foreign shore'  for a large part of my adult life. Although I wouldn't call myself a sociologist or an anthropologist I do have a wealth of experience in visiting and living in foreign climes and, thus, some insight as to what works and what doesn't.
I've lived in six countries, the states (my 'native' country), Spain, Belgium, England, Germany and Spain. My total time in the five non-native countries  is a bit over 25 years. During much of this time I travelled extensively; all over Western Europe on multiple visits, Australia, New Zealand, Japan many many times, China, Hong Kong, India, Malaysia, Singapore, Korea and Mexico. I've missed all of South America and Africa with the exception of South Africa which I've visited three times. My point here is that I have a substantial amount of experience of 'foreign shores'  so my mutterings have some basis to build upon.

My intent is to give some advice as to how to approach foreign travel and how to behave once there. I'll also have a few words to say about travelers who irk me with their behavior.

There are fundamentally four reasons one visits foreign countries . These don't encompass all of the variations  of why we travel, but they do, I think, cover the ground pretty well. The reasons are:

  • Business, professional conferences or collaboration and family reasons. This type of travel tends to be of short duration and very focused. In many cases the visitor is cosseted in the sense that the hosts in the foreign country have smoothed the way.
     
  • Tourism. Hugely popular in these days of relatively cheap and convenient travel. Tourists can be independent or organized (in the sense of group travel). I include vacationers in this category even though many of them are only seeking better weather than they have at home.
     
  • Dilettantes.  These are those who go to do 'A year in XXX' and sort of live in a foreign country for an extended period of time. In some cases this can span several years. The key difference between this group and the next one is attitude. The dilettante always intends to go back to live where they came from at some point in the future.
     
  • Immigrants. Immigrants intend to stay in the foreign country for the foreseeable future. They have no intent of leaving where they are once they have arrived.

The first two categories lump together fairly well so I'll combine my advice to these people. My main piece of advice is to try and learn as much as you can about the local culture before you go. This will endear you far more to the locals than a few words of their language. (Not that learning enough of the local language to be polite isn't a good thing, but face it unless you are a linguistic genius you can't possibly get fluent in many languages.) There are the obvious pitfalls such as eating with your left hand in Islamic countries, but there are many many other cultural pitfalls. For instance learning the greeting rituals in the various European countries is a major topic all on its own. (Do I shake hands? With women? What about 'air kissing'? ) Another example; picture taking. Absolutely fine in cities, around monuments and so forth, but don't take pictures of people without prior permission they can get very upset. Don't take pictures of your food in a restaurant unless you want to be considered 'gauche'. Being quiet and listening a lot will take you far in most countries. Try to be aware of what's happening locally by reading the local papers (you can glean a lot from them even if you can't fully understand the language.) Politics are not a taboo subject in most European countries, but do try to have some understanding of what's 'hot' locally and try not to be dogmatic or too defensive if people are critical of your home country.
Do have an agenda of places you want to visit, but leave enough spare time to be flexible. Many of my most enjoyable experiences have been ad hoc events or diversions from my original intent.
Above all enjoy the differences. If everything was the same as at home there wouldn't be any reason to travel would there? Things will be different, not necessarily worse or better just different. A tip; when speaking with those who speak some English, but not as their native language try to keep your English straightforward. No slang and mainly declarative sentences. Slow up just a bit. Doing these things will greatly help understanding.

Now, I'll also lump together the dilettantes  and the immigrants. For both groups the trick is to act as if you are going to live in that country for the rest of your life. So:

  • Try to learn the language
  • Work very hard at understanding and practicing the local social customs.
  • Get into the system. resident visa, Housing, taxes, schools, medicine. Be legal in other words.
  • Don't criticize just because they do things differently.
  • Learn the local pace of life.

In other words try to fit into the local society. If you are a Caucasian in Western Europe you have the advantage of not looking immediately different, but do notice how the locals dress. Often your cloths mark you out as a foreigner.
If you are living in the country to do a job all of this will be easier as you will have people around you at work to learn from and socialize with. Go with the flow. Also, if you're associated with a company or school or organization getting into the system is easier because you have easy access to people who know how things work.
If you are retiring to this country things are a bit harder as there aren't normally easy ways to know what to do. There is, however, lots of good advice on the internet these days. Don't be an illegal immigrant! Most governments in Europe are cracking down on this. Even though your chances of getting caught are small its not worth getting thrown out of the country. If you are a citizen of an EEC country you have no problem living anywhere within the EEC. If you're an American then you need to get a visa ( technically a 'carte de Sejeur'  in France) if you're staying more than 90 days.
Taxes are a fraught issue. If you work for a company they should make sure you pay what's owed and they should get you into the social systems. If you are retired you will be much more on your own. Just take your time and learn what needs to be done. If ,as many people who come here to France to live are, you are an 'artisan'  who works independently you need to make friends with a local in your trade and learn the tax ropes from him. What's declared and what isn't can get complicated. I know of one English builder who had to return home because he was too honest in his tax reporting. He ended up making much less take home pay even though he was fully busy.
In general settle in just as you would in a new town or neighborhood back home.

Finally, don't become what I like to term an "expat" In my sense an expat is one who lives ON a country not In a country. They get the newspaper from back home, they try to eat their own 'home' cuisine, they mainly associate with other expats. There are for instance areas in the Dordogne in France where one can live an almost wholly 'English' life. Try to avoid this of at all possible. By all means be friendly towards ones fellow countrymen who live in the same area, but not to the exclusion of getting to know the locals.

Finally, don't be a know it all to your friends back home. Its very easy to try to impress them with your local knowledge and the 'quaint' local customs, but don't do it. Often you'll be wrong or just sound naive to the locals and truly knowledgeable people.  A recent example was a blog post by an American going on about being able to buy raw milk in France and how the local mild cooperative had set up raw milk stands. All very interesting I guess, but the French have had availability of raw milk for as long as I can remember and the raw milk stands are an attempt to sell more milk as there's a glut of it in France and the farmers are suffering. Knowing only half a story does not make for good relations with ones neighbors.

That's my little piece of advice for the moment. Hopefully, it will be helpful to some people. I would, also say, however, that I might be best ignored in favor of doing what feels right for you personally when visiting foreign climes.

 

 

 

Oldies, but goodies

 

One of the nice things about France is that they treat their old people, like me, well. Families by and large stay close and the younger ones help out the aged; government pensions are if not overly generous sufficient to live on with a degree of comfort. I was reminded of all this yesterday when we went for a meal with the local Troisieme Age club. The French call old age the third age and think its a time for enjoying life thus the club gets together for outings and meals a few times a year. Yesterday was one of the meals.

Before I get into that, however, just a quick update on the last night at the lake. As usual the steak and french fries were delicious. The place was jam packed, not only were there lots & lots of Parisot villagers it seemed that every Brit within 50 miles had turned up to hear the band. Being that the band is made up of 'old' English people and that most of the Brits around here are retirees I guess it makes sense. Anyway they started off with a guest keyboard player who turned out to be our friend Alan. He was really good; it made me thing I was back in the Southern states in a bar with what I might call Western blues. Western blues are hard to describe, but you used to hear them all over Texas and the South. After he did his gig mainly with the lead guitarist as his accompanist the band got more modern with a string of Beatles hits. Pretty good, but not as much to my taste as the blues.

Back to the oldies repas. For once I remembered to take the camera even though Linda wouldn't let me take very many people pictures for fear of offending somebody. I started by taking a couple of shots of the 'Salle des Fetes", the village hall.

 

Here it is. It has two big function rooms, a full kitchen (not to mention a big BBQ are out side, a bar full sound system and so forth.
I'm sure at some point there was a central government subsidy as it seems that every commune in France has a very nice & modern village hall.
Ours in Parisot isn't as large as this one, but is nice nevertheless.

 

Here's the view behind the Salle des Fetes.

Not bad if I do say so.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's just one of the tables as people are beginning to sit down.

That's Linda clowning on the right.

 

Here's another table full below.

 

 

Lots of chatting, shaking of hands and cheek kissing goes on as everyone greets everyone else. It would be rude not to go through the ritual with every acquaintance in the room so this process takes a considerable amount of time when the crowd is fairly large.

You will note that there's already wine and bottled water on the tables, but we started with a 'punch'. It was Ok, orange based, but I don't know what else was in there.

Below is a scan of the whole announcement with a complete menu.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see the meal was 18 Euros, but only 10 Euros for members. Not a bad deal either way when you consider that all the wine you could drink was included.

 

 

 

Most of the meal was family style serving as you can see. This is Linda dishing up soup.
The soup was a nice rich vegetable broth.

 

As with much of the meal seconds were available.

Of course no French meal would be complete without bread; basket in reserve shown below.

 

 

 

 

 

Next came a really delicious salad with smoked salmon, shrimp and crab. The vinaigrette was superb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then the main course. Roast veal with a mushroom sauce. Not any old mushrooms mind you, but cepes! Delicious!

 

The sauce was particularly nice; we could have done with even more of it.

This is veal country so you can depend upon the veal being good and well cooked.

 

 

The veal was served with Aligot which is very much a local specialty. Now, you can get Aligot all over France, but they claim around here that it isn't the real thing unless its made with a special local cheese.

Said cheese is a variety of Cantal, but a very young fresh Cantal.

You can buy Aligot in the Super Markets locally or better yet you can buy it from vendors at most markets. Its always very rice and requires a lot of effort in the stirring. I've never attempted to make it since I'm sure what I can buy is better than what I could make.

 

 

 

And here's how you serve it! With a good pair of scissors!

A big scoop then a few twists and a quick snip and you have a portion Aligot.

 

 

After the main course we had cheese, a selection of Brie, Cantal and Blue de Causse. I didn't get a picture of the cheese unfortunately, but I did get on of the dessert.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dessert was a sort of ice cream cake. Very tasty with a cake layer, two layers of ice cream and a whipped cream top.
Don't ask me why the French call this a 'Norwegian Omelet", but they do and its pretty popular around these parts.

We were now served a sweet dessert wine prior to our coffee. They make some very good dessert wines around Gaillac and this was one of them. And also, they're a heck of a lot cheaper then the Sauternes.

With coffee came the offer of Eau de Vie. I've talked about this drink before; its very very potent. This one which I didn't taste was made from plums.

Quite a meal with plenty of good conversation while we ate.

 

Then our President got up to get the singing started. They do love their singing in our area and every repas like this one will end in a song fest.

Some will be solos, but most will be group sing a longs. Everyone seems to always know all of the words.

Linda & I had to leave at this point as we had to pick Rupert up from his grooming. We had had a great afternoon though.

 

Finally, a little plug for the caterer. Or the 'Traiteur' in French. They do a very good job of putting on these meals at a realistic price. Below is one of his napkins so if you're every out our way and want to put on a banquet he's you guy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

September 2009

Suddenly its ...

 

Fall. Autumn if you prefer. I'm always confused as to which to call it. Anyway all of a sudden its no longer summer. You can just feel that the air is different. Now, fall/autumn is one of my favorite seasons so I'm not complaining, just commenting.

I was ruminating about this yesterday as I drove down to pick up my friend Francis on the way to the golf course. (No, I won't talk about golf. My game isn't worth talking about, but I do enjoy it.) I left home at 8 AM   in bright sun light, temperature about 12 degrees C. By the time I got to St Antonin, or to give it its proper name; Saint Antonin Noble Val, it was 8 degrees and very foggy. This caused me to think about the importance of choosing where you live very carefully. A 15 minute drive had made a huge difference in the weather. This was no fluke as St Antonin gets a lot of day when the fog never clears due the the fact that its in a river valley with steep cliffs on either side. Beautiful without question, but not nice to live in. I was also reminded of the fact that St Antonin is a very undesirable crowd of people living there. Some are simply out of time & place hippies, artists so called, but they're not too bad just a bit dirty & scruffy. No, the bad part are the 'work dodgers' these are people permanently on the dole as the English say and in fact a lot of them are English living on their unemployment checks. There are a goodly number of French as well plus a few Dutch and Belgians. It ends up being a refuge for what we Americans would call 'swamp Yankees' or 'Rednecks' in English they don't seem to have a similar expression. Its so bad that several friend both French and British have moved their children out of the local high school equivalent.  Its sad because as I say its a beautiful town.

As I climbed back into the sunny morning I cheered up and thanked my lucky stars that we hadn't made a decision to live in St Antonin when we moved here. We easily could have done so. I now find that my favorite American, she of the prophylactic blog, has ended up in St Antonin this year. Fitting I guess, but still I feel sorry for her & her husband as I'm sure they didn't know what they're getting into.

Anyway, back to fall/autumn. There's a crispness to the air now even though the temperature are still in the mid- twenties. We had our first proper rain (I say proper as opposed to rain from a thunderstorm.) a week ago and as a result the grass has already turned green again. Although I know it isn't true it seems as if the days have gotten an hour shorter - overnight. Not too many leaves have turned yet, but as soon as we get a cold night they will.

All of the bounty is ripening. We harvested our hazelnuts last week, a friend brought us a big bag of figs which I've dried, the walnuts are starting to fall and I harvested all of the basil and made puree out of it for the freezer.

Tonight we've going to the last night the café at the lake will be open. We'll have our Argentina steaks and say goodbye to the Belgian proprietors. It should be fun; there's a live band promised which consists of a group of old fogeys like me. Well not quite THAT old, but we'll see.

 

 

 

 

 

A plentitude of plums

 

Its getting to be the time of year when we start gathering the bounty of the countryside. One of the first things that ripen and are therefore ready to be picked are plums. In fact a whole variety of plums both red and green. Not to mention the prunes. I'm not quite sure what the difference is other than prunes are considerably larger than most plums.

Near to us towards the West is Agen which is famous for it's prunes. This brings back memories as the area of California where I grew up, North of San Francisco, was also a great prune growing area. I used to make most of my money for school clothes by picking prunes. 25¢ a lug I got and it was hard work I can tell you picking up prunes from the ground. Still. I could make as much as $6.00 a day which was pretty good back then.

Anyway, back to the local French plums. The 'Mirabelle's' are one of the first to appear. They're yellow and small and make excellent jam and open faced tarts. You'll see them in the patisseries with their thin crust and a single layer of plums.

Then their are the large purple plums that start appearing in the markets, I don't know their name. They're about the size of a large golf ball and come in two varieties that I know of. Unfortunately I can't tell the difference. I say unfortunately because one type has a stone that's easy to get out and the other doesn't.  In any case these are excellent for making my popular (locally popular that is.) rustic fruit tart. There's a recipe somewhere on the blog if you can find it. Now that I look I find that maybe that recipe isn't on the blog. There is, however, one for apricots. You make the plum version the same way, just substitute the plums for the apricots.

This year, I guess because the weather has been so good our friends Michael & Ruve's plum tree went berserk and produced an amazingly abundant crop. This tree has purple leaves and produces small purple plums. They're hard to stone so not very good for pie making, but delicious to just eat raw. One can, however, only eat so many raw plums. Ruve decided to make plum sauce, So she was able to use up a lot of plums by making both a sweet plum sauce AND a spicy plum sauce. They're both delicious and, luckily, she gave us a bottle of each.
Linda decided to have a go as well so Ruve & I picked over five kilos worth for her. She did two things with them. One lot she coated in a sugar syrup and froze. (except in this case she used 'Splenda' rather than real sugar to save calories) She'll use these to make plum crumbles this winter. Linda made the rest into a Chinese plum sauce. This has ginger, star anise, Sichuan pepper, soy sauce and so forth in it. Absolutely delicious. She might not have started had she realized that the recipe called for two hours of constant stirring. I did help with this part. I parked a chair in front of the stove and stirred with one hand while holding my book with the other.

Finally, and most famously of all, the locals make their 'lethal' Eau De Vie from the wild plums that grow in the hedge rows. I say lethal because this stuff has a very high alcohol content. Way over 100 proof! The plum bushes seem to like growing in the hedge rows, but not on their own. We have a number of them in our hedges, but we don't make Eau De Vie as technically its illegal. You can go here for a write up on this subject and to find out why its illegal to make your own Eau De Vie.

Who would have thought that I could blather on at such length about plums, but there you are.

 

 

 

A post for Charlie

 

Charlie was kind enough to send me a few messages the last of which asked a number of questions. You can see that message here. Since Charlie was interested I thought others might be as well so here's a post about Parisot & French life.

First of all Parisot is a small village. The entire commune of Parisot has a population of about 450 people. About 40 of us are 'foreigners' that is Dutch, Belgian, British and so forth with just two Americans. A nice thing about France is that if you live in the community you can vote in the local elections. Not Nationally, but only locally. It makes you feel part of things local. In any case last year we elected a whole new village council, younger and more go ahead. They've initiated a number of new things. More get togethers, English classes at out newly refurbished Library, a Friday market and so forth.
Since we are so small the village can't support a lot of commerce, but we do have a village shop which sells the basics, two bread shops one of which does very good pastries, a restaurant, a drug store and a restaurant. There is a new bar/cafe due to open up any week now & we're all hoping that it will be good. We also have a Doctor, a veterinarian, a hairdressing salon and a garage; two in fact. Thus, the village is provided with the basic necessities.

For more major needs our nearest place is Villefranche de Rouergue which is about 20 minutes away. While not a big town, maybe 35,000, it has almost everything you would need. Two well equipped hospitals. One of which I spent some time in last December and was very well treated. A full range of shops including three supermarkets (they're just about finished building a new larger branch of Leclerc a major chain) there are do it yourself shops, dress shops, restaurants, specialist food shops, lots of bread shops and a huge and very good open air market every Thursday. So, Villefranche is where we go for most major shopping.
I like the open air farmers markets & we have a great choice. On Sunday we have both St Antonin & Limogne. Limogne is preferred as being less crowded and touristy.  My favorite on Monday is Caussade. This winds through the medieval back streets & has everything from live chicken to all vegetables & fruits to truffles in season. I recently did a pictorial blog on this market which you can see here in the August posts (last month)
In any case shopping is not difficult. If we need more there are Montauban, Cahors or Albi all within about a 40 minute drive. For really special things then there is Toulouse. the fourth largest city in France, only just over an hour away.

Charlie asked about housing & house prices. A wide subject. As in most places you can find all price ranges. The market is fairly flat at the moment as are most places. The French are conservative  so have not  over heated their market; thus in general prices are rising, but slowly. The higher end of the market in our area which mainly depended upon the British is suffering due to their problems. One nice thing is that its not difficult to buy a house in France. Like most places there's a fair amount of paperwork, but its not all that complicated. In France almost all  house sales go through a Notaire. The Notaire is a quasi-lawyer type licensed by the government and is a neutral party working to ensure fairness and making sure that all relevant taxes are paid. The expensive part of house buying are the fees & taxes; the real estate agent usually gets a 6% commission paid by the seller and the various government taxes can amount to nearly 10% of the purchase price.
As regular readers will know  we have our house for sale as we want to downsize. Here's our selling site if you're interested, www.campdelmas.com
. There you can see what you get for a fairly high price. A good location with views, nearly three acres of land and a nicely renovated house. You can spend a lot less (or more) for modern houses or smaller old stone houses. Or, if you're brave you can buy an unmodernized farmhouse for renovation. This is not for the fainthearted or the non-French speaker. Dealing with all of the building trades is hard enough in one's own country; doing it in a foreign language can be a nightmare.

Still & all living here is great. The people are wonderful, the weather terrific, the food great and life is just very enjoyable. I don't think getting into the system is all that difficult. The health system in France is probably the best in the world. We qualify because I worked in England long enough to qualify there and as part of the Common Market the French have reciprocal agreement with England. Other friends buy private health insurance which is not expensive. Recently a friend went through a whole diagnosis and treatment regime  for a major illness and it didn't cost them much at all. Thus what can be a major worry in the states just isn't here in France.

Finally, I have to say that living in a foreign country isn't for everyone. We find that many people just don't like the fact that things are different from what they're used to. There's nothing wrong with that at all. To happily live in a country that isn't your own takes a certain mind set and openness to changes. For some of us that's an adventure that we embrace for others it a constant pain in the neck. We hear far too many people here who say "if only the French would do... or do things this way....., then..." Well, the French (or for that matter the American or English or whomever) aren't going to change to suit we foreigners its we who have to adapt to their ways if we choose to live in their country.
I've lived in six countries & I mean live in not just visit and I've enjoyed them all. Now, however, I'm very happy in France and don't plan on moving to any other country. Boing, what?

Any question please let me know.

Charlie, thanks for asking. Let me know if you would like further questions answered.

 

 

A tribute to Sheila Lukens

 

It was with great sadness that I read of the death of Sheila Lukens recently. She and Julie Russo wrote the wonderful cookbook "The Silver Palate Cookbook" in, I believe, 1979. I came across it, can't remember whether it was given to me or whether I read about it or what, in about 1982. I had just moved back to the states after the breakup of my first marriage and was getting back into serious cooking (My first wife wouldn't let anybody else near the kitchen even though she was only a so so cook.) TSPC was a revelation. To me the recopies were so fresh and original that I couldn't stop trying them out. I wouldn't say that I cooked my way through the book, but I certainly tried the majority of the recipes.

For this I owe Sheila a huge debt of gratitude. TSPC really got me back into cooking and 'upped my game' as it were. I went from strictly traditional dishes to the more modern innovative approach in TSPC. That, along, with living in Berkley where Chez Panisse, Pig by the Tail, The Cheese Shop and Monterey Market all existed at the time revolutionized my cooking. Thank you Sheila!

Village Life

 

Regular readers may remember that I posted about the disaster that happened with our annual Festi'lac celebration. Turns out that the committee is on the hook for several thousand Euros. Remember that the organizers are all young people who live in the village. That's a lot of money to try & find in a small community.

As predicted there will be lots of fund raising events. The first is this Sunday down at the lake. I thought that you might be interested in the flyer that announce the event so here it is.

 

 

Click here for a full page view of the notice.

 

Some of the language is interesting.

'Soutine' mean in aid of or in support of. In this case in support of FESTI'LAC, the committee.

The meal price is fixed at 16 Euros, but! Donations are welcome!

An 'urne' will be at your disposition. Literally an urn will be at your disposal. However, in French an 'urne' is also a ballot box. Thus a place where you can make your additional contributions. We will.

 

 

The meal itself is very simple and inexpensive. Melon with Port or Country ham, followed by chicken then cheese then dessert. It goes without saying that wine will be served with coffee to follow. A very simple meal at low cost. We have a get profit into the kids so they can pay their debt.

We'll be there with all the friends we can gather & we'll contribute something extra.

I'll report more on Monday. 

Regular readers may remember that I posted about the disaster that happened with our annual Festi'lac celebration. Turns out that the committee is on the hook for several thousand Euros. Remember that the organizers are all young people who live in the village. That's a lot of money to try & find in a small community.

As predicted there will be lots of fund raising events. The first is this Sunday down at the lake. I thought that you might be interested in the flyer that announce the event so here it is

 

 

August

Silly Season

 

Silly Season; now I can't remember whether that's an American or British expression. Maybe its both? I get confused sometimes between my native American sayings & my adopted British ones. In any case the expression refers to this time of the year when there's so little going on that we resort to having deep discussions about silly subjects. We even get serious about things like baseball & cricket! (Congratulations England for beating the Australians and taking the Ashes. Now I won't have to listen to endless discussion about the game from my friends.)

What led me to this post, however was a Silly Season discussion on eGullet about garlic. Can you believe that there were 87 posts on the subject and 2,232 viewings in the space of 11 days. Amazing! The main discussion was around 'natural' vs. pre-peeled garlic. Now, you've got to admit that that's pretty silly.

I haven't weighed up the pro's & con's of each camp so can't say who 'won', but I can say that it seemed in general that those in favor of pre-prepared garlic were mainly city types and their point was the difficulty in finding fresh natural garlic of high quality. This more than convenience or laziness seemed to be their point.

I was in the natural garlic camp. In fact I'm not even sure that you can get pre-peeled garlic here in France. To be honest I've never looked. I know that you can buy peeled cloves of garlic in some kind of liquid (vinegar?) at the olive stalls on the market. Their is never a problem with garlic quality here. I don't find peeling garlic to be much of a chore. Sure it takes a while if you're doing a lot, but I really don't mind. If I need a lot and/or I need whole cloves then I just pop the garlic into some boiling water for a few seconds.

What did get me going during this silly season discussion was all the posts about garlic presses. To me the garlic press is just about the most useless kitchen tool ever invented. They do a terrible job, are hard to clean & unhygienic and spoil the garlic. I threw mine out years ago after trying at least a dozen models; none of them were worth the drawer space they occupied.

So, there you have my silly season post. I'll try to be more serious in future. Now you know why I ended my post on Caussade market with all of those garlic pictures.

 

To end a picture of my favorite rose garlic.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Monday Market

 

The Monday market in Caussade is one of my favorites. I've persuaded my friend Michael to switch from the Sunday market in Limogne in favor of Caussade. Its not a grand market nor is it much shopped by the foreign community; its a real working market. In addition to the food there is a large section selling everything from soup to nuts. There is in season even a truffle market.

Anyway today I took my camera with me as I wanted to share this market with you. Enjoy the pictures. I'll keep the commentary to a minimum.

 

 

Where we park is near the part of the market where they sell live fowl.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                  Let us not forget the ducks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the daily menu from one of the local restaurants. Not bad for about $17.00.

Translated it reads:

Country Salad  or House made Duck Terrine

       Followed by a choice of:

Grilled Bar (a fish)  or  Grilled baby chicken  or Marinated grilled pork.

         Followed by:

A dessert of your choice. (I can't quite make out what it says about the cheese at the bottom. Normally you can substitute cheese for dessert.)

Wine (1/4 liter) and coffee are included. You don't tip in these places.

 

 

Here we start into the market properly.

 

 

 

 

 

A selection of local wines & beers. This is from a permanent shop just behind the table.

 

 

 

 

Sunflowers for sale. Nice!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice tomatoes at a good price, but not the cheapest on the market.

 

 

 

 

 

Here they are at 50 centimes per kilo. These are the ones I bought a couple of weeks ago to make sauce out of. Last week they didn't have any & Michael had to buy the slightly more expensive ones. He's still moaning!

 

 

 

 

Just to complete the tomato story here are some really nice old fashioned cherry tomatoes.

 

 

 

 

 

As you can see meat prices in France are pretty high. He's only advertising beef & lamb here both of which are quite a bit more expensive than pork.

Notice that 'Merguez' sausage is cheap.

 

Here's the butcher himself.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fancy, expensive, canned goods. High quality though.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I like this picture.

 

 

 

What do you use green almonds for?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are all herbal remedy mixtures. They will cure almost anything according to the seller. France is very big on this sort of thing and you can buy herbal products in most regular pharmacies.

 

 

 

 

 

How about some bread?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grow your own lettuce.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are very high quality, but expensive cheeses. Here's the most popular cheese vendor. There's always a long line.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What would a French market be without the fabric & table cloth stand? There almost always is one. And, no they're not just for the tourists.

 

 

 

 

This is just one of several fish mongers. Great quality.

 

 

 

 

Lovely berries and chanterelles. Yummy!

 

 

 

 

This stand is all organic produce. They have some really nice stuff and the best selection of fresh herbs on the market. They're my best source for cilantro. (coriander here in France)

 

 

 

 

 

This is one of my favorite stands. Its run by 'The Herb Lady' and her son. In the foreground are their dried and candied fruits, then their olives (great quality, low price) and at the other end Mom with all the herbs. What you see below is just a selection of her total range of herbs. And she knows her stuff, you can ask most questions about herbs and get an exhaustive answer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How about some raw unpasteurized milk? Only 1 Euro per liter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lots and lots of garlic. This is for those over on eGullet who have been moaning about the difficulty of getting good garlic. As you can see there's no such problem here. (A livre by the way is a pound or 500 grams.)

I hope you've enjoyed this little market tour. I'll try to do one later in the year so you can see how the products on offer change.

 

 

Recent traffic

 

Here are copies of some recent letters I've received and replied to which I think may be of some general interest. Let me know.

Hi

just been reading on your website, regarding cassoulet and especially cassole's,  I've been trying to buy myself

a traditional cassole for a long time now, BUT to no avail, could you direct to any potteries or their website's,

I've looked at a few sites, mostly in French obviously (very ignorant of me not to understand the language).

if you could help with some information it would be gratefully appreciated

kind regards

Richard

Preston, Lancashire, England

Reply:

Richard

 
Thanks for your message. I don't know of anywhere in the UK where you can buy a cassole. I'm sure there must be somewhere.

 
In any case here are a couple of links to sites in France that sell them.

 
http://www.poteriecassouletcastelnaudary.com/Cassoles.htmlhttp://www. 
Its hard to tell whether or not these people sell online or not, but its worth a try.

 
http://www.lecassouletchaurien.fr/index.php?cPath=36. These people seem a better bet to buy and ship to the UK. Give them a try.

 
Let me know if you succeed.If nor maybe we can find another way.

 
Regards

 
Dave

 

Another letter:

Hello Dave/Linda,
                I first want to say that I've been reading your blog/site
for some time and truly enjoy it. As an ex chef and current photographer I
long for retirement and the opportunity to enjoy France for longer periods
of time other than the odd week or two we can now spend there.

    The reason that I am writing is to see if you have available a list of
area restaurants? Either on your site or maybe via a posting Dave may have
done on Egullet? I saw recently that he encouraged someone to inquire about
good restaurants next time they were to be in the area.

    We are going to be staying in Salles la Source (between Rodez and
Marcillac) in a gite.
It will be my wife,myself and our 6 1/2 year old son. So,they would need to
be places where having a six year old would be appropriate. Our tastes run
to more rustic,local preparations than highly refined,tortured-stacked food
kind of places. Possible Ferme Auberges,great bistrots etc.. We've traveled
several times before in the Dordogne and Provence and digging up restaurant
recommendations for those areas seemed easier I guess because they are more
highly touristed. We are really looking forward to our week in the Aveyron
and are spending the second week in the Minervois.

    At this point we are considering trips to Villefranche,Corde,Najac,the
Aubrac area,
possibly around Millau. Any where that is day trippable from Salle la
Source. Any recommendations you could point us to would be greatly
appreciated. Hope you have some good fortune in finding a buyer for your
home and keep up the great work on your French Food Focus site! It's
inspiring for those tied down among us.


   Cheers,
         Vance

Reply:

Vance

 
Here's the promised reply. Its a good day for sitting in front of the computer as its really hot outside today. Well into the 90's (I'd say we may see 37 -40 C today) and its set to continue for at least a few days more. Our gite visitors are loving it and making full use of the pool.

 
I've attached a copy of my restaurant list, but I'm not sure how useful it will be to you as we're just about 30-40 miles West of where you'll be and the majority of the restaurants are pretty local. What is on the list and what I'd highly recommend is Le Vieux Pont in Belcastel. Its a Michelin one star & worth every penny. What you do is reserve for lunch during the week. Order the 28 Euro menu. You get a limited choice, but you also get all the little amuses & extras that are served with the full 50 Euro menu. Order your wine from their short "Coup de Coeur" list as these are inexpensive and always very good. If you like good food you will love this place.

 
Taking a 61/2 year old to restaurants in France is not a problem. The French dote on children & he will be welcome anywhere. ( our big standard poodle, Rupert, goes to all the restaurants with us. He's been to a two star, but hasn't tried a three star as of yet.)

 
Your best bet in this rural area is to focus on lunch. You can find yourself eating nearly alone at dinner time; besides of which you don't normally want to go to a restaurant before 8:00PM in France which is difficult with young children. Ask around and you will find that there are a number of places where you can get a 3-4 course lunch for between 11 -15 Euros including wine. Local specialties are various duck based dishes (comfit, magret), nice salads, veal (your area is famous for it), aligot (a potato & cheese dish), the pork is excellent as is the chicken and, of course, the vegetables this time of year. Normally, the beef is not good by American standards and is expensive.

 
You will be in great cheese country. Not far from Roquefort & its caves, but also near the Cantal and Salers areas. In addition you will find a great selection of goat's & sheep's milk cheeses. Yummy. Don't be shy about trying them.

 
The places you mention are all good ones to visit. Go to Villefranche de Rouergue on a Thursday morning as its market day. Its a big & very good market. Cordes is nice, but make sure you park legally as their meter maids are ferocious. You might also want to try St Cirq Lapopie & Pech Merle which is nearby. They are both near the River lot & its a pretty drive from Conques down the river heading West. Pech Merle are the caves with prehistoric paintings, very interesting. Seeing the viaduct are Millau is a great sight as you head East.

Najac is very pretty and you can buy a favorite cook book there called "Goose Fat and Garlic" its written by an English lady who has lived in the area for many years. Its as much a social history of the area as a cookbook and is throughly enjoyable.

 
If you should get as far West as Parisot give us a call (the number's on the website) and come by for a drink or something.

 
Have a great holiday and do let us know how it goes. If we can be of any further help just let us know.

 
Cheers

 
Linda & Dave  

I'm happy to try and help whenever I can. Keep the letters coming.,

 

 

 

 

'Much Ado about...' Something!

 

We went to see Shakespeare in the open air the other night and I must say it was wonderful. The play was 'Much Ado About Nothing' and it was performed in the village square in Lauzerte. The weather was perfect, the actors very good and our seats couldn't be bettered.

Having gotten organized for once we had reserved and paid for our seats via the internet. In fact we got the last ten bookable seats. When we arrived and collected our tickets we were early enough to choose our own seats. We took front row. Believe me, sitting only three feet away from the performers put a whole different complexion on the play. Absolutely wonderful. Its amazing how little scenery or props are needed to stage a play like this. The actors were dressed in what looked like first world war military costumes with the actresses in nice , but plain dresses. The only props were a table with a bowl of fruit and a bunch of sunflowers. A bottle of wine & some glasses. Thats it!  The performance was great.

There were 15 of us in all so we'd traveled over in a convoy of 4 cars. We led the way with our Sat NAV plotting the route. We arrived in good time and found a great place to picnic. Lauzerte is a beautiful hilltop village and we were able to park just near the city wall in the shade and have our picnic sitting on benches overlooking the countryside. Everyone had contributed a dish or so. I did a tortilla with salsa, there were several quiches and salads. John had done his rightly famous orange cake and Deborah had done a superb apricot tart. Very yummy with a bit of wine to wash it down. We only had to walk 50 yards up to the square for the play.

Here's a mystery. On the way home we all went of own separate way except for Toyin who followed us as he had no Sat NAV in his rental car. The machine took us home by a totally different route from the way we'd come. Don't know why. There was no traffic is speak of either way; it was all country roads. Go figure?
Now even more amazing; each of the other two SAT NAV'S took a different route from ours, again not the same way we'd come. BUT, after an hour of driving we all converged at Caylus AT THE SAME TIME! Don't think I'll ever figure that one out.

Anyway all was well. Nobody got lost in the dark and we'd all had a wonderful evening.

 

 

Disaster!!

 

Poor kids! The local young people work so hard every year to put on the Festi' Lac event, but this years was a disaster.

There was a thunderstorm earlier in the evening so people stayed away. Only about 400 turned up instead of the 5,000+ expected. The irony was that the storm never amounted to much at the actual lake. It sort of skirted the edges, but never dropped any rain to speak of.

There were so few people that they had to try to refund everyone's money since they couldn't really try to put on some of the bands & events. Some fireworks were let off. Those that couldn't be taken back.

We're told that the losses are 20,000 Euros. Thats a lot of money in anybody's language, is huge in terms of a small village committee. I have no idea how they'll try to raise it. We can only have so many vide greniers and village repas.

To add insult to injury and turn this into a true tragedy a young man drowned in the lake that night. He went missing at about 4:00 AM and was found at 6:00. Nobody quite knows what happened. The assumption is that he'd had far too much to drink. He was only 25 years old and was from Montauban.

I'll keep you posted on any further developments.

I promise that my next post will be a happier one.

 

 

July, 2009

 

This'N That

 

Well, its that time of summer when life slows down a bit. In our case just before the cultural storm hits us in earnest. So its been a fairly quiet week.

We went to a concert in Cordes-su-Ciel Tuesday. That started nicely with an early supper at Seglar, one of our favorite inexpensive restaurants. Linda had comfit de canard & I had a great pizza. We both had salad starters; mine was a 'fisherman's' just chock full of cold seafood & smoked salmon. Very yummy & all for 12 Euros each with wine. As the name implies Cordes is one of these places perched on top of a hill, very picturesque, but the village makes its living from parking fines so one doesn't dare to park illegally. I dropped Linda off as high up as you can drive & went in search for a legal parking place. The best I could find was quite a ways down the hill. So, up I trudged. The combination of wine with dinner, a very hot evening and a lot of steep hill nearly did me in I can tell you. Then I found out that they wanted 20 Euros. EACH! for admission. I was not happy, but we were there so we paid. To add insult to injury the opening pieces was an ultra modern atonal something or other. I must say that I've never heard a cello make sounds like that before. I hated it. Linda loved it. The composer was there so one had to be polite. I far preferred the Schuman & Ravel that followed.

I missed my golf on Thursday. Linda had forgotten I was going to play & had loaned the car to a friend. No big deal it was really too hot to play anyway. Our poor friend; her cat had just died, she had been to the dentist with an abscess and her car was broken. What's the old expression? I certainly don't begrudge her the use of our second car for a couple of days.

Its busy down at the lake; they're getting ready for Festi'lac. There will be something over 5,000 people which is a really big deal for our little village. Great fireworks are the big attraction as well as several bands plus a giant paella. I do mean giant, it will be over 8 feet in diameter. We won't go, but will try to stay awake to go up into the village to watch the fireworks. Hope they make money this year, they usually go overboard on the fireworks so lose money.

Simple dinner with friends last night. Rupert's pal, Barty a retire greyhound, came with his owners as did our friends from up the hill. I had made gazpacho with garlic croutons to start. We had both Toulouse sausage and my own brand of Italian sausage done on the BBQ along with baked potatoes, green beans and yellow courgettes as a main course. Dessert was a lemon cheesecake. A nice simple meal served out on the verandah.

Next week activity hot's up, but not the weather according to the forecast. We've got two more concerts to attend plus the Shakespeare ("Much Ado About Nothing"). I'm particularly looking forward to the play which will be done outdoors in a charming village square. We're going with friends & doing a communal picnic. Should be fun.

Its a simple life in rural France.

 

 

Tis 'fete' season

 

In our part of France July & August are the season for fetes. The fetes come in all shapes and sizes and get the villagers involved, especially the young adults.

 

Here's the side window of our village shop advertising just a few of the very local events.

As you can see there is a fair amount of competition so the signs are made as colorful as possible to attract attention. In actuality the Mayors of the local communities do get together and set 'fete' dates so as to minimize conflicts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's the notice board as you enter our village. Naturally, our very own 'Festi'lac' gets prominence.

It will attract several thousand people to its three bands (one to suit each age group) and very impressive fireworks display. As you can see the will be a giant paella to eat. The paella is very popular in our area and is very good. By giant they mean a paella that will be at least 6 feet in diameter. The following day there will be a large vide grenier/ brocante (yard sale/ flea market)

Saint-Antonin Noble Val is in competition on the Sunday with its 'fete des Battages' (here's a link to what a battage is all about: http://www.breuillet.net/05agriculture/battages.html.) Its a sort of harvest festival for when the wheat was brought in and threshed.

My favorite is this one for the horse races at Puylagarde: 

 

The straw horse looks a real fast steed and the jockey a true professional. The races themselves are fun. Very informal with some trotting races and a few flat races. Every year somebody manages to fall off, but normally they're not hurt. Everyone brings a picnic and lots of beer and wine is consumed.

Its great fun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course the races are only part of the whole fete in Puylagarde. There's lots more.

 

In case you're wondering Veronique Pomies who is on on Monday plays the accordion. Our local people do love accordion music so she and her fellow players are very popular. All of the traditional songs are played and everyone except we foreigners seems to know all the words.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The turn off to Parisot from the main road is a hotbed of sign competition. It very visible.

Croches is a musical term and this is a musical festival held every year in the nearby village of Verfeil sur Seye.

Somebody forgot to put the place on the sign. Its hard to get good help these days!

 

 

 

Our local Festi' Lac takes pride of place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Unfortunately, more around the corner is the sign for Parisot's Art Festival. They'll get a more prominent position after the other festival have passed.

The Art Festival is growing year by year and this year there will be over 20 artists exhibiting. A unique feature is that the art is shown in people's homes. Living rooms, garages and so forth. The children have their competition in the old market hall.

This year there will also be three musical evenings held in the church. Chamber music, a piano recital and an opera singer.  It should be great fun.

 

Finally, here's the sign as you leave the village.

I don't think any other part of France can match ours for the number and enthusiasm of its summer 'fetes'.

They're very much local events not put on for the tourist trade, but for the local populace. If as a visitor you happen to be here and read the signs all the better. 

 

 

What are we going to? Well the races for sure plus the art festival. We'll also be going to an outdoor production of "Much Ado about nothing" put on by a travelling company of English actors. In addition there are a number a classic concerts that we'll attend. Promises as always to be a busy summer our here in the sticks.

 

Summer Pickles

 

Much as I love the French Cornichons I miss my American dill pickles. We do eat a lot of Cornichons and I've sampled as many other types of French pickle as I can find, but they just don't seem to do good old dill pickles.  So, I've resorted to making a version of them myself.

The first problem is finding the right cucumbers. 'English' cucumbers are always available. These are the great large dark green guys. Mostly hothouse grown I suspect and very mild tasting. As summer starts you can begin to get something close to the right kind of cucumber. They look right, but they're always too big. At least 6" long and very thick. And, of course, at the right season you can get the little guys for making Cornichons. Every so often, though, I find they type of cucumber I need at one of the markets.

Such was the case on last Saturday. I'd gone to Villefranche to buy some cards downtown and as I walked through the main square in front of the church I took a look at the small stands selling local produce (they're there very day except Thursday when the BIG market fills the square) AH HA! There was the inevitable little old lady with a basket full of just the right kind of cucumbers.  I'll have a livre says I. (NOTE: A livre is half a kilo or 500 grams. Its also pretty close to a pound. Of course, its also the word for book and the French call the British currency, the pound, a livre. Interesting. I'd love to know the derivation of all the lexicography. But, I digress.) They cost me one Euro. I took them home all happy & excited.

For these summer pickles I basically use the recipe from Bittman's "How to Cook Everything". Its very simple, the pickles are delicious and I love them because they don't have to cure for very long. Long lasting dill pickles made with vinegar are a whole different ball game. For these you simply dissolve some kosher salt in hot water then add crushed garlic cloves and dill to taste then add your scrubbed cucumbers. Voila! I cut these in half lengthways to speed the process. Put everything in a bowl with a weight on top to keep the pickles submerges and let them sit out for 24 to 48 hours to develop taste. After that jar them and store them in the fridge. They need to be eaten within a couple of weeks.

I could hardly wait. I put mine in the fridge Monday afternoon. I managed to hold on until about 7 PM before sampling. Delicious, I love these little guys. They were even better the next day. We had guests over that evening (cold beet soup, salad 'Nicoise' and plum tart.) and they ate a goodly portion of my batch with their wine. I have some left, but they'll easily be gone before the two weeks are up.

I'm looking for more cucumbers!

 

 

"Orage"

 

Orage is simply French for thunderstorm. We had a dozy yesterday evening. Lots of lightening, buckets of rain and very gusty winds. We don't get them this bad very often, but this one went on & on. We had a family of renters in on the other side of the house so had to go over and make sure that they'd closed all their shutters.

They were all up at the pool admiring the lightening. We advised that this wasn't the best idea in the world as swimming pools are not a place to be near in this kind of weather. We invited them down to the verandah to watch the fireworks.

Rupert of course was not at all happy. Poor guy does not like thunder at all  at all. Fortunately all the people helped to reassure him and he calmed down. In the meantime the parasol above the dining table on the back patio ended up on the lane. Luckily the table was OK>

In any case we gave the renters some wine and I made some popcorn to watch lightening by. The show ent on for over half an hour. Very impressive! We think it was a highlight of our renters stay. They really seemed to enjoy it. They also enjoyed the apricot pie I'd made for them earlier (the recipe is somewhere on the blog). It was a good one as I'd found some excellent apricots at our Parisot market AND I'd coated them with my recently made 4 fruit marmalade. Delicious if I do say so myself.

Anyway happy 'locataires' left today promising to return. Nice to hear.

I'll tell the tale of marmalade soon. Its sort of weird.

 

 

The 'repas'

 

Last night was our village 'repas'. This is a public meal open to all who live in the village or who are visiting. I'll admit that I'm feeling very stupid today for having neglected to take the camera along with me, my apologies. The prices was 15 Euros which is a bargain bearing in mind that you get a substantial meal, unlimited wine and a live band for the price.

Last night we were blessed with perfect weather. The festivities began at 19:30 outside in the square in front of the town hall. As the sun went down the square was in the shade and the temperature dropped to a comfortable level. As is usual on these occasions nothing started on time. The ladies collecting the money didn't even arrive until 20:00! The bar was open though and the lads were stoking up the BBQ.

We had brought two Scottish families who are staying in the gite with us. I brought them & smart Linda joined us later. We started greeting friends. Its surprising how many people we've come to know over our years here. Lots of kisses & handshakes exchanged as well as the latest local gossip. (a new restaurant is opening at the top of the village. Will it succeed? Will the food be any good? The jury awaits.) I made a point of thanking Gina who I knew had helped the Mayor with his speech at THE wedding.

The band made an appearance and played a short set of tunes. This was a 'traditional' band complete with trumpet and accordion. They were good & not too loud. By now most people had gravitated to tables and were sitting. The jugs of wine and bottles of wine began to be placed up each table at fairly short intervals. The party was truly on now!

Serge, our local restaurant owner, appeared with the huge tub of aligot. For those of you who don't know it aligot is a dish made of boiled potatoes and local cheese. The cheese is a form of Tome and the locals will tell you that you can't make a truly good aligot without it. Its delicious, but a heavy stick to your ribs type of dish. Its preparation requires much stirring of the potatoes and cheese. Its hard work. It was fun to watch the village children try to have a stir. The smaller ones couldn't get the paddle to move.

While the aligot was finishing we lined up for our starter which was a selection of cold cuts; salami like sausage, friton, headcheese and a lone Cornichon. All very nice and there was plenty of local bread on the table. Seconds were offered by local young women moving around the tables.

At this point with everybody sitting down I could estimate the size of the crowd.  About 200 I think, not bad since there are only just over 400 resident in the entire commune. The foreign contingent about 11% of the total population were well represented. I think we all feel that we should support local events and causes.

Next the main course. The aligot and BBQ'd lamb and local sausage. Absolutely delicious. AT this point the local girls were selling bottles of a better wine for those who wanted it. 6 Euros per bottle. Seconds of the lamb & sausages were also on offer. Lots of bottles water available still.

Now the music really got going as did the dancing. The French are avid dancers and good at it. This band was aimed at the older crowd so there were lots of foxtrots, waltzes and more traditional dances. Dessert, ice cream cones, was served.

By now it was nearly midnight and everybody was having a great time. We left not too long after midnight as Rupert had been inside at home for a very long time. One friend, however, didn't quit until 04:30. He has quite a head today!!

In all a fun evening in rural France. Sorry about the lack of pictures, but there's always next year.

 

 

 

 

The Capon Caper

 

It all started when our neighbor and my good cooking pal Ruve offered me a frozen capon AND a whole fois gras!! What a challenge. The deal was that I had to cook them with she and guests coming to dinner. Thinking quickly I said OK so long as you give me a truffle as well. A bit of a gulp at that, but she's game and the deal is on.

This was planned to take place after THE wedding, but when we still had guests. As it turned out our brother & sister-in-law were still here as was Ruve & Michael's nephew. (He & Michael had just finished a three day hike so were ready for a good meal.

I had my recipe out of La Russe Gastronomic so I was in good shape. All was well until the day before the meal. The plan was that the ladies were going off to visit a pornographic potter (its another story, I'll tell you sometime.) and we guys were supposed to meet them in Villefranche for lunch. This worked as I could visit my favorite butcher & get the things I needed. Well, the pottery was closed so the ladies wanted to go to Seglar for lunch followed by shopping (sight seeing they said, but shopping they meant) I began to panic as I absolutely needed a few things for the capon & they had to be in place 24 hours in advance. I won't bore you with the whole story, but I managed to break free with the guys & find a good French butcher.

After some linguistic difficulties he produced exactly what I needed. Some pork fat and a thin slab for barding, Perfect! And the price was right, no charge! I wanted to invite him to dinner since he now knew what I was cooking & was amazed that a 'foreigner" would try it. Happy now & with ingredients in hand we made it home so I could start preparing.

This recipe requires that you start 24 hours in advance. Having unfrozen the capon and the fois gras previously I could start. For the capon I carefully loosened the skin over the breast area then slipped in very thinly sliced pieces of the truffle. With the fois gras I deveined it then whizzed it & some of the pork fat in the food processor (about 1/4 by weight fat). I also added the left over truffle. The mixture then had salt & pepper added plus a bay leaf and a few fennel seeds ground up. I cooked this in a pot for about 10 minutes just to combine the ingredients. Once it was cool & coagulated again I stuffed the capon with it .

I now trussed the bird and covered it with buttered parchment paper. Now it could rest in a cool place until the next day. As it was very warm a cool place was our spare fridge.

Next day I made our starter which didn't turn out as well as I'd hoped. This was slices of smoked salmon surrounded by avocado with finely minced cucumber & tomato with extra concentrated Balsamic vinegar dotted around. The flavor combinations worked, but the avocado was not ripe enough & the vinegar lost it shape & spread around. If the avocado had been riper & I'd been able to serve immediately I think I would have been OK. I may try this again as the flavors were good & its a nice light starter to have before a heavy main course.

The capon was in the oven covered with it's barding. 180 degrees C for roughly three hours then I took the barding off & let it brown & finish off for another half hour. I served the capon with creamed potatoes, green beans with herb de province and julienned carrots with sugar & a bit of ginger.

The capon was absolutely delicious, moist & flavored by the truffles. The fois gras stuffing went well even though a bit decadent. All in all a very nice main course and special.

We had a perfectly ripened St Felician for the cheese course. I served it with four kinds of breads from my favorite shop in Villefranche; country style, rye, whole wheat and multi-grain, all were small loaves the call Valentines.

Dessert was a sort of lemon mousse. Its very easy; I had made lemon cheese the previous day so was able to whip some cream then just add & whip in the lemon cream. Light & delicious after a large meal.

Too busy cooking to do pictures, but you can use your imagination I hope.

Thus ends the capon caper. It was fun and a good thing to do after all the wedding festivities.

 

 

June, 2009

 

The Wedding - Finally the actual event

 

Finally the big day is upon us. (sorry that this post is so delayed, but I was just plain wedding'd out!) Again the weather was perfect. Sunny, bright, but not too hot. No major panics at the last minute.

Everybody gathered at our house for the walk up to the church. The bride was so anxious to get there that she took the direct route which is pretty steep instead of the planned longer, but easier route..

 

A proud father walking up the hill to give away his daughter. Given the steepness of the hill & the vagarities of ladies shoes everyone stopped at the top for a breather.

The bridegroom & best man were spotted by some peeking around a corner.

Here he is in front of the marie . Does he look happy or what?

 

 

Into the marie we all trooped. Once we were settled the ceremony began. I must say I was very proud of our Mayor; he gave a wonderful speech, in English! He'd obviously had some help in writing the English version as the grammar was perfect and he's obviously practiced the speech as well as his delivery was excellent. This from a Mayor whose normal English is no good at all. It was a gracious gesture on his part and made me very proud of our village.

 

 

Here he is with the happy couple after the formalities were finished. Te groom just can't stop beaming.

 

 

 

 

Here's the couple with two of the bridesmaids. The third & smallest bridesmaid is missing because she went fishing!

 

 

 

 

 

 

After the rice throwing and nine million pictures we all headed for the chateau and the champagne reception in the marquee.

 

 

 

 

Denise had organized the marquee and the tables beautifully. Although you can't see them the views from the open sides of the marquee were spectacular. It was terrifically kind of Michael & Ruve to offer the chateau for the wedding. Everyone was very grateful.

 

 

A table setting. We had a super fish soup starter followed by roast lamb then a wonderful selection of cheeses followed by a trio of desserts.

Finally the dancing began once the cake was cut.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A thoroughly enjoyable wedding which came off with hardly a hitch. The dancing went on until the wee hours. I ducked out for some much needed sleep.

 

Thus ends my Wedding posts. There was a great BBQ at the chateau the following day which was enjoyed by all. Again, the weather held. This was catered by Bavo who had also done the dinner. Well done as always by him.

The next post will concern the great capon caper. Wait for it.

 

THE WEDDING DAY #6

 

Now we're really getting into this. Perfect weather yet again. I got up early to make brownies. Linda wanted them for tonight. I also bought some bread and made sandwiches to take to golf  as the course has nowhere to get food without driving back to the village. I made French style concoctions, some with garlic sausage, mustard & Cornichons, Some with Lagioule & just a bit of cucumber & mayonnaise and some with just butter & sheep's cheese.

 Derek (the bride's father), Tony (a close friend of the bride's parents) and I took off at 9 AM to play golf. Its nearly an hour's drive to the course. When we got there there was the edge of a thunder storm going on with a bit of thunder & lightening. Just a few drops of rain. We went ahead anyway, the course even loaned Derek & Tony clubs for free. Much to my delight I won the first hole. This is a rare event as they're bother better golfers than I. The weather got better & better, we stopped and had our sandwiches after nine holes and then carried on. After the 18 holes Tony had won 4 holes and Derek & I three each. The rest were halved. A just result and pleasing to me as I played well by my low standards.

Back home & everything was going pretty well. Everyone was supposed to start arriving about 6:30 for drinks & a stand up supper. Linda had made her delicious mussaka's, fresh green beans & mashed potatoes (they were supposed to be baby new potatoes, but they boiled a bit too long so became mashed potatoes instead.) I unfroze some canapés I had made before hand, not good. They don't as it turns out freeze well so many were spoiled. Those that survived and got cooked were good though. I whizzed down to Caylus and got some potato chips & nuts to fill in. It worked.

Everybody arrived in dribs & drabs and it turned into a really nice party with lots of wine, beer and conversation. Linda's food was a real hit. We barely had enough for the 25 people who ate. Great evening which continued until not too late as people had been travelling & were tired and also wanted to be in good shape the THE BIG DAY.

As I wasn't cooking I had time to take pictures. Here are a few selections. You can see the whole lot here: http://picasaweb.google.com/davidlewishatfield/JohnVictoriaSWeddingNight1WelcomingTheGuests?feat=directlink.

Or at least I hope you can.

 

 

                                                                                                            

 

 

Rupert watching for more arrivals. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Linda getting ready in the kitchen for dinner.

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The bride and groom. We're not nervous - are we? Victoria's thinking  & John looks like a deer caught in the headlights!

 

 

John (the groom) with his mother, brother and sister-in-law.
They all seem to be having a good time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Various crowd scenes.
Everyone was having a good time & the weather was perfect for being out on the verandah.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  Of course some people just can't resist clowning around. Including Linda!

 

 

A tired maid of honor. This is one of Victoria's nieces.
They've spent most of the day in the pool, but are burned out now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

     A story before bed time. The other brides maid.
    This one when she heard that her sister was going to be a
    brides maid asked if she could be a 'mermaid' too.
    Of course she could as you'll see tomorrow.

 

And so to bed for everybody. Tomorrow's THE big day!

 

 

THE WEDDING DAY #5

 

Not much cooking today. Yard work though and all the ladies still working on the marquee and table arrangements. First guests arriving & getting settled into their B&B's.

Naturally, my normally trusty ride on mower refused to start this morning. The problem appeared to be with the starter switch so Ben & I took it apart .(Ben installs electronic security systems for a living so was just to guy to have around) Couldn't find the problem even using my old voltmeter. Ben was saying that it acts like a blown fuse & I'm saying that I've never heard of a fuse on a lawn mower. Turns out that he's right, buried underneath in a bundle of wire there is a fuse and its blown. Off we go to Caylus to my trusty quincaillerie to get one. Can't find them so I ask  where they are. Over here is the answer, except that we're out of them! Frustration. I then think of a Renault garage a couple of miles up the road. So off we go again. I ask the girl at Service Reception. She goes off & comes back with the head mechanic. "you want a fuse", he asks. Yes, I do. OK, come with me. We go into the work area & he produces a large plastic container stuffed with fuses of every size. I'm saved. He gives me two of the right size free of charge. We head back home.

The mower works now and I get the lawn mowed while Ben rakes the grass. My brother-in-law gets going with my fancy new strimmer. Soon we have a very tidy garden.

Everyone fends for them selves for lunch. I have a much  needed nap.

Later people start arriving. First two, then another two. Wine is poured and everybody chats out on the verandah. The weather couldn't be nicer. Its a good start to the festivities.

About 7:30 we all meet at the restaurant at the lake. This is not a grand place, but they do good simple meals al fresco. Most of us have steak frites. (the owners are Belgian and make fantastic french fries) We drink more wine, but not too much as I'm up early to play golf tomorrow.

Thus ends day #5

 

 

THE WEDDING DAY #4

 

Day 4 and all's well.  Yesterday was more cooking; two big pots of Bolognaise sauce one vegetarian & one normal with lots of meat. Took a while simply due to the quantities I was making. Both sauces turned out pretty well when we had them with spaghetti for dinner.

In the morning I had walked the dog which relaxed both of us. We went on one of our favorite walks up through the woods. Very beautiful with lots of wild flowers. Roop was disappointed as he couldn't find any rabbits or deer to chase. Still, a nice walk.

I took Ben & Cholodie with me to Villefranche when I went shopping and gave them a little tour. Its a pretty old Bastide town and they enjoyed it. After the supermarket we stopped at a favorite bread shop and picked up a loaf of "Le Secret". This is a large loaf of bread with a great crust and is absolutely delicious. I don't know what the secret is, but it seems to be a good one.

Back home I made a couple of carrot cakes. It seems that a couple who will be wedding guests have their 40th wedding anniversary on Sunday so I've been asked to make a cake for them. I dearly love carrot cake, but always seem to have a hard time getting it to rise. Its one of the few recipes that I follow exactly, but this doesn't seem to help. I'm beginning to think that maybe my baking powder is old & past it. I bought new baking soda not long ago, but not baking powder.

While I was baking all of the ladies, five of them, who had been decorating the marquee came down and sat on the verandah making gauzy butter flies and drinking wine. As I baked I was giving Ben instructions on how to make gazpacho. He made a big batch witch turned our well and went down a tread with the ladies. I finally got to have a glass of wine and a chat with my friend Allen about 18:30.

We persuaded he and Denise to stay for the spaghetti and an apricot tart I'd made (this recipe is somewhere here on the blog) Afterwards I tried to watch some tennis, but the TV seemed to crap out. Hopefully its Ok, if not we have another one.

And so to bed. Lots of arrivals tomorrow and lots of yard work scheduled. We're going out for dinner so not much cooking in store.

 

THE WEDDING DAY #3

 

Day #3 was good. The weather is holding and is perfect. Sunny, a slight breeze & temperature in the mid-70's. Who could ask for more?

The groom went down to Toulouse to pick up a Nephew and family; wife and two delightful little daughters.  Their plane was about an hour late due to a security scare back in England, but still the delay wasn't bad. It was Chlodie's (the wife) first visit ti France so she was fascinated. The children couldn't wait to see Rupert. Francesca, the older one at 5 years old, says she's going to marry Rupert. Her younger sister isn't so sure as normally she's afraid of dogs, but she's coming around. Rupert is very gentle & patient with children.

We had Jacques in for lunch as well as the family. I did my now infamous sort of Spanish omelet's. One vegetarian & one with lardons & chorizo. Those plus a nice salad plus oatmeal cookies for dessert made a simple, but nice lunch. After lunch everybody headed for the pool to play & work on their tans. I had a nice read & a nap.

For dinner we had roast pork which I had been marinating with roast potatoes and a selection of vegetables. Everyone is trying to lose weight even though its too late now so no dessert. Plenty of wine thought!

The weather is holding so far. Keep your fingers crossed.

 

 

The Wedding Day #2

 

Day 2 has past and I'm still alive. Not a bad day at all; the weather was perfect and the forecast remains good. Bride's Father, Rupert & I went for a good walk through the woods first thing in the morning. Came back, had some, coffee and got ready to go to market. (if I'm on my own I go to market in my scruffy morning condition, but if I go with Linda I spruce myself up. I went with Linda yesterday.)

We went to St Antonin market yesterday instead of out favored Limogne. What a zoo! St Antonin is very touristy, you hear lots & lots of English spoken and there are quite a few stalls that sell tourist oriented gee gaws. The streets are narrow so its very crowded and hard to do one's shopping. We went because the Herb & Spice Lady has a stand there and I needed to stock up on ingredients for Leo's Rub & my BBQ sauce. In addition we needed vegetables to feed the masses yesterday evening.

I had quite a discussing with the spice Lady about dried onion. I wanted onion powder, but she said that it was no good and that I should buy shredded onion as it keeps much better. But, I said, I need it in finer sizes that that for my rub. She said, OK then run it through your spice grinder when you need it. I gave in as after all she's the expert and she's right running it through my coffee grinder (this one kept only for herbs & spices) is easy enough. I do love her stall. Its very colorful and she seems to have virtually every herb & spice known to man. Its fun to work out the names in the two languages. She's better at the English names than I am at the French.

Anyway, we got everything else including 4 dried salami type sausages for 10 Euros. Plus I got a gift sausage; great deal. Then we got out of town as the crowds were getting to us. Got home, unpacked then made up a batch of rub and a couple of jars of BBQ sauce. By now it was lunch time so we had a simple bread & cheese with fruit type lunch.

After lunch I put two pork roasts that had been thawing out into their brine mixture so they'll be ready to roast on Tuesday. I also put the shoulder of lamb we're having tonight in the fridge as it had nearly thawed. I then rubbed all of the spare rib racks that we had last night. Everybody except Rupert & I went off to Najac to tour the castle. (its pretty spectacular & Linda was chuffed because she got in free because we know the care taker & his wife. Its nice when you know the locals.) Back home I was going to have a nap, but couldn't sleep so I got up and made croutons to go with the gazpacho we're having as a starter tonight . I also decided to part bake the ribs ready for the BBQ. Then I tried to think up something suitable as a main course for our vegetarian niece. In the end I took two fairly large yellow zucchini, cut them in half lengthwise and cut ou their seeds. I then sautéed a mixture of red bell pepper, onion & garlic chopped finely; once this mix was cooked I stuffed it into the center of the zucchini and it was ready for baking when the time came.

In the end there were 8 of us for dinner. The gazpacho was even better the second day especially with the addition of honey vinegar which we'd found at market. The ribs took a while as I ran out of gas on the BBQ in the middle of cooking them. A had to change bottles & get the heat back up. They were fine in the end and even though everyone said there were to many of them, they somehow all disappeared along with the twice baked potatoes and coleslaw that Ruve brought. Dessert was some sinfully good chocolate that Linda had bought.

Watched a bit of the rain delayed golf and then off to bed. Another day survived, getting there!

 

 

 

Wedding Day #1

 

Ok, here we are on day#1. The parents arrived, well actually Linda picked them up from the airport at Toulouse after a much needed therapeutic shopping foray in Montauban's. They arrived on time which was good, but on the way home car problems ensued. Mind you we had just had the Mercedes serviced, but nevertheless a light fixture fell off then something else happened (Car mechanics are not Linda's strong suit) which made things worse. At least they made it home. We'll see what Bernard has to say on Monday since it was only in for service yesterday! My theory which holds that you don't take any car in for service until it has something really badly wrong is proven yet again!!! Anyway. they made it here safely whic is good. Rupert, the dog, went berserk as he absolutely adores my brother-in-law.

Anyway after an hour or so the kids (namely the Bride & Groom) arrived having driven straight through from England. They were early since they had set off early because they were too excited to sleep. Their trip went well & the SatNav got them safely through Paris even in the rush hour. Lots & lots of unpacking ensued, I won't bore you with the details of what got unpacked except to say that there were lots of ohhs & ahhs from 'Auntie' over the dresses.

The groom, his prospective Father-in-Law & I managed to watch a fair amount of the US Open Golf on TV. Good that.

Dinner? Ah yes, a gazpacho with nice fresh croutons  I'd made earlier in the day. Pretty good if I do say so. Then a baked potato & salad for our vegetarian Niece and a nice pot of Cassoulette for the rest of us. Suitable wines. I would have dons a sautéed fresh pineapple with ice cream, but they were all too full. I'll save it for another day.

Thus ends day #1. I'd be ecstatic if they were all this easy. Of course I haven't mentioned shopping, lawn raking, path clearing, gravel raking or any of the cooking.

Still, tomorrow may be easier - I hope!!!!!

 

 

 

THE Wedding is nearly upon us!

 

I've spared you any posts about THE Wedding until now, but I can't hold off any longer. The event has been dominating our lives for low these many months; or I should say dominating Linda's life & the mine by proxy. The grand event will take place next Saturday, June 27th right here in our humble village. The preparations have been going on for months. Plans made & remade. Dresses bought & then almost unsought. Question? How many of my male readers know what a fascinator is? (and no, its not an obscene  expression or object) Menus thought up, then rejected then finally agreed. You wouldn't believe the paperwork involved when getting married in France. Guess what though? Neither of the kids getting married are ours!

No, its Linda's favorite Niece! and her intended John. For reasons best known to them they decided many months ago that they wanted to get married here in Parisot rather than in England where they both come from. You can read all about it at: www.victoriaandjohnswedding.com. A website that I put together for them. Why we don't know. We should be flattered I guess. Once we discovered that it was actually possible legally for them to get married here the event was on.

Little did we know the amount of paperwork involved in getting married in France. And, this is only a civil ceremony as neither of the kids is religious. So much for the Common Market! Our local Marie has been very helpful, they've done everything to help, but there's just a lot of paperwork even though this is a first marriage for both kids. Our sainted friend, Jacques, has been of enormous help. Just today we had to have the kids scan & send down copies of their passports for me to take to Madame at the Marie. Don't ask why; we just do what's asked of us. The Mayor is being very helpful; he's even been taking English lessons so that he can do the ceremony in Both languages. He'll wear his ceremonial robes. Very kind indeed.

Once our friends Michael & Ruve found out about the wedding they offered the grounds of their Chateau for holding the reception and wedding dinner. That expanded to include a BBQ and games the next day. As you can imagine the kids (& their parents) were over the moon at that news. It is a very beautiful chateau; very storybook like and has been beautifully renovated. The grounds & gardens are terrific. Michael & Ruve are extremely kind to have offered this and I must say there couldn't been a nicer or more romantic setting for a marriage.

The event is being kept small. Only about 30 including some locals whom the kids have gotten to know over the years. Another friend, Denise, is designing and supervising all of the decorations for the marquee. She's brilliant at this kind of design. Bavo is catering the Wedding dinner and the BBQ. He's Belgian and moved down here a few years ago having sold a very successful tapas bar back home. He'll do a great job.

As for us we will have 8 people staying in the house for the next two weeks. This includes two delightful nieces aged 5 & 3. The older one wanted to be a Brides Maid, but the younger one wanted to be a mermaid!So we're feeding never less than 8 and at times up to 25 people every day for the next two weeks. I've had to do a spreadsheet to keep it all straight. I'll start filling you in on our food preparations on my next post.

Meanwhile, keep your fingers crossed for us. Some positive thoughts wouldn't go amiss.

 

May  2009

 

 

Piddling about, ain't it nice!

 

Haven't been doing much exciting the last few days. Staying home to avoid the crowds (Assumption is a big holiday in France & a 4 day weekend so the roads are crowded. (Friends drove home from the Paris area yesterday & got stuck in four traffic jams.) Its nice though; we've had so much hecticness over the past month that its nice to just piddle about.

Linda has been concentrating on the garden which is looking splendid. I keep mowing the blankity blank grass which has been growing like mad. I've cleaned the pool, its heating up nicely, and the tiled areas around it. I've put up some hanging baskets for Linda on the veranda. My only big job was to move one of our satellite dishes. When it was installed some years ago the trees were much smaller and even though I keep cutting them back it had become a question of the dish or the trees. I decided to move the dish. Its embedded in a big lump of concrete and I decided to move the whole thing; this involved much digging to uproot the dish and to dig a new hole. Moving this heavy lump by myself was a bit of a  problem, but I managed using a bit of applied physics. Leverage in other words. Lo & behold both of my levels have lost their liquid for leveling in the vertical direction. ( called friend, but his fancy laser level only levels in the horizontal direct. Ah well, I'll just have to buy a new one.) I've called Mark, our local satellite guru, to come over and re-align the dish.

Nothing fancy on the cooking front. Roast chicken the other night. Steals at the Lake cafe last night, nice though as they've just opened again for the summer. Tonight I'm trying a new recipe for salmon  from Jacques Pepin. Sounds good. I do like his cooking.

Only three weeks to preparations start for the big wedding. After that its guests all summer, only one free week during all of July and August. Want a French vacation? Call us, maybe we can do a deal for the week of July 18th.

I'm going to play around with Wedding dinner menus (only the printed ones; somebody else is doing the actual cooking. Think I'll use a stylized picture of the chateau where the dinner will  be held. Here's a couple of my efforts so far. If you're so inclined let me know what you think of them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Confusion!

 

Well we really got messed up the last couple of days. Linda thought that she had invited our friends from South Africa for lunch the day before yesterday. She'd also invited some local friends who she thought would go well with the South Africans. I planned a meal and we were all set.

Our local friends arrived on time so we sat around, had a drink & nibbles and chatted. And chatted. And chatted, by now our South African friends were seriously late. Linda called them - no answer. No South Africans. Ah well. I started dividing things up; most of the par-boiled potatoes stayed out of the oven. So did the majority of the carrots, they had to wait to be braised. The zucchini stayed off the BBQ as did one of the brined pork roasts.

I got us going with chilies and brie done on the BBQ. These were good, but the chilies were a bit to hot for our friends. We finished off the main course; roast pork, braised carrots, baked baby potatoes and BBQ'd zucchini. All went well. Dessert was Tarte Tatin with ice cream. (I'd made two of them so one went into the freezer.) All in all we had a nice meal and a good chat with our friends who we hadn't seen for a while.

Next day Linda got a hold of Tony, the South African neighbor, And found out that he was expecting to come to dinner that day, not lunch the day before. Who knows who got their signals mixed up? In any case we decided that they could come for dinner anyway.

To adjust the foods now that we were a bit short I bought some baby back ribs to go on the BBQ with the remaining pork roast. There were just enough carrots, zucchini and potatoes if we plated up instead of serving family style. To add a bit of substance I used the remaining chilies along with some tomatoes, onion, cucumber and sweet yellow pepper to make a brochetta. I got this wonderful loaf of bread which is ideal for brochetta. Its called 'Le Secret' and comes from my favorite bakery in Villefranche. Its a big rectangular loaf with a thick crust and is very much pain de Campagne. Anyway, I sliced it thickly and quickly toasted it in the BBQ. Everyone got a clove of garlic to rub on their bread, the brochetta mix was passed around and a chunk of parmesan with a grater to top the mixture. This was a real hit.

The rest of the meal was fine and the South Africans particularly enjoyed their Tarte Tatin.

We broke up at about 12:30 having managed to demolish a fair amount of wine and improve international relations immeasurably.

All's well that ends well.

 

Ethics - slipping I think

 

I'm afraid that this post won't be of a lot of interest to you if you are not a regular on the eGullet forums and have been following their arguments about an ethical code when posting. You can read the whole thing on: www.egullet.org. In a nutshell they have written up a code of ethics for posting on the site and they seem to have high hopes that it might be adopted by other bloggers. Most of it is what I term 'motherhood & apple pie' in other words so innocuous and self evident as to be banal. Who wouldn't agree.

Where I got into a discussion with the power that is was over 'comps'. This is where (in this case) a restaurant, food provider, event or the like provides a meal, product, tickets or the like to someone. In other words its complimentary. In most cases these comps are given in the hopes that the recipient will comment or more importantly write favorably about the donor. They are very prevalent in the restaurant business as a method of, hopefully, generating favorable comment and reviews.

Now, the eGullet view was that comps were OK so long as the compee revealed that a comp had been received when they wrote up whatever it was that they were comp's. I took and take strong exception to that policy. eGullet is a forum for those interested in all thing related to food, most members are like me non-food professionals although there are a goodly number of people in the industry who participate. My position was and is that even disclosed that comp'd opinion is tainted and, therefore, of little value. How can one possibly know what the real opinion is? Therefore, my opinion was and is that if a comp has been given that restaurant, provider, event or whatever should not be written about by the compee on eGullet.

This doesn't mean that the food professional isn't free to write about it anywhere else if they so please. One assumes that articles in magazines are biased by comps, that reviews of events are by people who receive free tickets and so forth. Blogs are personal opinions and should be taken as such. (would anybody be in any doubt that French food focus is strictly MY opinions?). To me it's just that forums such as eGullet exist to be non-commercial, places where the membership express their opinions freely and fairly, not commercially.

The granddaddy of all review publications' the Michelin Guide insists upon anonymity got its reviewers and for good reason. No comps there.

Additionally, I think there is another common practice that is perfectly acceptable; this is what I term the 'freebie'. Your vegetable guy gives you an extra carrot or your regular Friday night restaurant throws in a free dessert. Any provider adds a little extra something either in the hopes of gaining your repeated custom or your good opinion . To me these are OK in almost all cases. They are a far different kettle of fish from the 'comp'.

Here in France the 'freebie' has almost become expected in up market restaurants; the amuse bouch is common in fact we had one the other night in Toulouse. Comps are another matter. The only personal example I can give is from when I was in business in a fairly small town in England. Whenever a new restaurant opened you could bet that I'd get an invitation for a free meal. This was  because we were a relatively large company in the town  and did a lot of business entertaining. Fair enough & all above board, but I certainly wouldn't have written up my opinion of these places in a blog or on a forum.

Anyway I lost the argument on eGullet as one tends to do. I'm starting to wonder why I bother with it. Well, I do know why I bother; its because there are some nice people who frequent it. Besides I like a good argument every so often although I can't say that I appreciate not being taken seriously and cut off.

Who was it that said 'dictatorship is the last refuge of little minds'?

 

 Brai !!

 

Or at least that's how I think you spell it. Its supposed to be the South African word for a Barbeque. They are rightly famous for BBQ in South Africa or at least in my experience over several trips. In any case we have a South African neighbor, Tony, who shows up a the beginning of every summer. He's a nice guy and very hospitable. This time he has two couples from home with him; they'll be here for several weeks. In any case we got invited over for a brai the other night. Sounded good to us; we volunteered to make some salads.

As an aside. Make the opportunity to visit South Africa. Its a wonderful place especially the Western Cape around Cape town. Great people of all colours, wonderful scenery, superb food (both ingredients to buy & restaurants) and wines to savor. All at prices that are hard to believe. How much longer this will last is anybody's guess given the politics, but our friends from South Africa say that the elections held recently were encouraging. GO! is my advice.

 

Here we are watching the 'brai master' at work. He's built two fires from very well aged hardwood and has let them burn down to ashes.

 

 

 

 

Some part baked potatoes getting finished off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Toulouse sausage just going on the other fire.

The South African allowed as how our local sausages were more than OK.

 

 

 

 

 

Here are the two fires doing there job. If you look closely you can see that the sausages have been turned once. They ended up being turned multiple times to ensure even cooking.

Later, and u8nfortunatel I didn't get a picture of them, we had a whole passé of sheep's sweet breads that our friend Rob had bought from the local butcher. They were delicious. For my American readers they are known as 'Rocky Mountain Oysters".

 

So the brai was good and we enjoyed it. The other thing I wanted to share with you was my recipe for potato salad. Now, I'm perfectly aware that just about everyone has their own recipe for this, but this I think is a good one. I don't claim that its my own. I call it Mary's Potato Salad as it was Mary an Irish neighbor many years ago who was kind enough to share her recipe with me.

 

Chili Joint!

 

No, there's no such thing as a Chili Joint in France. Or at least I don't think so. Certainly not out here in the wilds of deepest France. Might be nice if there was, but there isn't. Besides, it was a national holiday today in France so nothing much was open & we couldn't shop. That's why Linda and I decided to make chili for dinner tonight. Sometimes we just get these cravings.

The 'joint' part is that we made this chili as a team. I tend to like things spicier than Linda so for this effort it was agreed that she would be in charge of adding all the condiments and I'd do the bulk ingredients.


So, I started off by making a miripoix (onions, carrots & celery) plus some garlic, then I fried up a goodly quantity of hamburger in a bit of duck fat (the hamburger here is 85% meat so can us a bit of extra fat). This was added to the miripoix and I then added a can of red beans plus a can of tomatoes. This simmered away nicely for while.

As that was happening Linda made up her spice mix. Alas, we discovered that our jar of chili spice mix was empty. No big deal. Linda just added red pepper flakes, lots of ground cumin, some cayenne and oregano. She ground these together in the mortar & pestle and added them to the mix along with some salt. The chili got a good stir and was left to simmer for a good while, well half an hour anyway.

We both had a taste and agreed that it was a bit 'wimpy' so more of most things especially cumin were added. Better. More simmering. Linda checked again and added Worchester sauce  and chicken stock          which further improved things.

We did some braised leeks and coco beans to lighten things up and served up the chili. It was pretty good. In fact very good. We both agreed that although good something was missing. For our next attempt we'll add some tomato puree and drain the beans as we thought their juice was too strong a flavour. And we'll think about the missing ingredient.

Thus we created our own chili joint right here in Parisot. I don't think we'll open it to the public, but the chili was good and we enjoyed making it. By the way, Rupert enjoyed licking the plates. A real gourmand is that dog.

 

Famous - Maybe?

 

Funny how things happen. Yesterday I was working in the garden in only my shorts (not a pretty sight) and wondering why Linda was taking so long to shop (she was relishing the chance to do so with nobody in tow) when here she came closely followed by an Audi convertible that was vaguely familiar. Yoikes I thought  what's going on ere? I quickly grabbed a shirt and went over. Linda says "here's somebody who wants to talk to you". I leaned down and there was Charlie a local Real Estate Agent we know well. He explained that he had a writer with him who was doing an article about Americans living in our area of France. As they were driving around Charlie though of me. Not hard as they're aren't hardly any Americans who live in our part of France. Anyway, we asked them in.

Turns out that Steenie Harvey is the European Editor for a magazine called International Living and she's doing an article about Yanks in France. Her partner is taking pictures. So we get Charlie to show them around the house while Linda & I put away the perishable bits of her shopping. We then make everyone a cup of tea (not very American, what?). I get interviewed by Steenie which is fine and sort of pleasant as I haven't been  interviewed by a journalist since I retired. She asked both the obvious questions and some non-obvious good ones.

The one that struck me the most was when she asked what I thought would most surprise an American coming to this part of France for the first time. An interesting question and one I've been thinking about ever since. Here are my answers now that I've had time to think. The only difference between these and my off the cuff answers is their completeness.

  • I think the first surprise would be the tranquility of this part of France. It is very peaceful, but not isolated or backward.  There's plenty of life going on, we're less than an hour from the cities of Albi, Cahors, Montauban and Rodez; and just over an hour from Toulouse so everything modern is available. But it is quiet and peaceful, life proceeds at its own pace and there always seems to be time for a chat or a coffee or a glass of wine. It just seems that the hecticnees and frenzied pace of so much modern life is missing.
  • A second surprise would be the sheer beauty of the countryside. Its not dramatic, but its wonderful and very varied. One goes from gorges, to vineyards, to rolling hills, to rivers, to medieval villages, to oak & chestnut forests and to cities all within a short drive along deserted roads.
  • The natives are friendly! Most Americans have a concept of rude abrupt Frenchmen. Its just not true. It is too a certain extent true of Parisians, but I think all big city dwellers tend to be a bit rude and abrupt whatever their nationality. Here the local people are very friendly, curious about strangers, eager to talk about the area and its history just plain friendly. For most Americans the language is a barrier, but one that is easily broken with a modicum of French and a modicum of English on the local's part. Everyone has a good laugh together even if the language isn't working to well. A sub aspect of this friendliness is politeness, the French are very very po0lite. To you and to each other, they are also formal. We've mostly lost the differences between the formal and the familiar forms of address in English, but they're retained in French. Vous, not Tu. At least until you know someone well or you're addressing a child.

There are more points, but I think those are the ones that stand out to me. Anybody who reads this is welcome to chip in with another point or a disagreement.

With any luck I'll be quoted in Seenie's article next month.

I did go to the magazine's website (www.internationalliving.com) to have a look. Interesting, all about good places to live. According to their most recent research France is the best country in the world to live in! How about that? I'm glad they agree with Linda & I and I'm glad they reached their conclusion on a more scientific basis.

I'm more than glad that I had a chance to make a slight contribution.

 

 

Home Alone - 56? 

 

It only seems like 56 days since the last time we were home alone, but it's nice to be on our own for a few days. Mind you I'm not complaining. I love having our friends and family visit. They're all 'good' guests, they help out, share expenses, cook, BUY WINE! and are generally a pleasure to have around. Eventually, however, it becomes a bit too much of a good thing and Linda & I appreciate a few days on our own to relax & recoup.

Our friends from the states left yesterday for Northern Germany to visit a great Grand daughter and her parents. Its a long drive & we've loaned them a car for the journey. Its a good long distance car and has our newly acquired GPS system so navigation isn't a problem. They're stopping off overnight (in fact two nights so they have a day to explore the area where they're stopping. Smart idea I think.) in the Champagne region which should be a good break.

For their last night here I cooked the first BBQ meal of the year as it was a beautiful evening. We started with large mushrooms grilled stem side down then flipped and filled with garlic butter. Easy and delicious. For our main course we had grilled quail (split down their backs & sprinkled with thyme, salt & pepper and a very light coating of olive oil.) These were accompanied by twice baked potatoes. (small potatoes baked in the oven, let cool, insides scraped out and combined with a bit of butter and chopped chives & put back in. Then onto the BBQ to heat & crisp up.) and zucchini squash, quartered and coated with Herbs de Province, garlic granules and S&P and cooked on the grill. It all worked pretty well together.

For dessert I had made two mousses. One was a chocolate mousse uncooked with 85% chocolate, beaten egg whites and cream so it was light. The other was an uncooked lemon mousse with gelatin to stiffen it up. They were served side by side separated by bought Galatine cookies. The chocolate was topped by lemon zest and the lemon was topped by chocolate mint. (yes, it exists!)  Absolutely delicious. This dessert with definitely go into my permanent repertoire  of dishes. Sorry no pictures as I was too busy cooking.

It was a good send off for our friends and we now have a week on our own. Except for dinner out with local friends on Wednesday and Friday evenings. Well, somebody has to do it.

 

Grass, Grass & more Grass!

 

We've had a lot of rain lately; real spring weather. Unfortunately, the grass loves it. I seem to spend all of my time on the lawn mower. The good news is that I have a deal with a local farmer where he cuts the majority of our field in return for the hay. Unfortunately, again, that still leaves a lot that I have to cut.

It dried off and was a nice day today so I was out on the mower knowing that if I left it the grass would quickly become impossible. This was after a visit to the local quincaillerie.

Now, if you visit France you should make a point of visiting a quincaillerie; they're wonderful. Imagine an old fashioned hardware store combined it a dry goods store and you have an approximation. Today I wanted three things. A special mop head for doing the wooden floors, no problem. A bucket with enough for the mop head, no problem. A very fancy stopper for an IKEA sink, problem! It wasn't even the same size as the ones in the catalog. However, we found a normal plug that although not fancy seemed to be the right size (this after much discussion and measurement) so I bought it with many assurances that I could bring it back if it didn't fit. This for a 50 cent item. I didn't get to go down into the catacombs today mores the pity. They're not really catacombs, but a myriad of cellars under the main store stocked with all kinds of hardware goodies. Do find and visit a French quincaillerie if at all possible; guys will be in heaven and Ladies bemused, but intrigued.

Back to the lawn. Ran out of gas half way through. Local gas station closed for lunch. Nuts!

Decided to make lunch. Local whole wheat bread for tuna mix sandwiches (tuna, chopped onions, chopped celery, diced red pepper, diced Cornichons and low fat mayo) ; Celeri rave, salad parmentiere and julienned carrots; great Spanish potato chips and, of course, some white wine.

Filled up my gas can and finished the lawn. Planted some sweet corn brought over by an American friend and planted some beefsteak tomatoes he brought as well. He says its not too late for the tomatoes, but I'm not so sure. Will keep you posted. My cilantro & basil are doing well by the way.

Came in to watch some snooker (World Championship semi-finals) An addictive game if ever there was one.

Now finishing this and will get ready to go out to dinner at some friends house. They're both good cooks so I'm looking forward to it. They serve good wine as well so the evening will be nice.

Such is life in rural France. Tough isn't it?

 

 

Cassoulet - Continued.

 

Had a good nap and was ready to start cooking again. Linda reminded me that we didn't have any nibbles to feed our guests with their pre-dinner drinks. So, I had a look at what was available in the fridge and came up with two kinds of little snacks.

 

These are bits of fois gras wrapped in flaky pastry.

 

 

 

 

And these are salmon Rillets with fresh chives from the garden, again wrapped in flaky pastry.

 

 

 

These seemed to satisfy everyone as they drank their wine and caught up on the events of summer. I find it interesting how Europeans love to cluster together in small areas. In this case there were 16 people crammed into an area of maybe 10 by 10 feet even though at the other end of the room there was a space at least four times larger complete with sofa's and comfortable chairs. Go figure?

Anyway, we got everybody seated on our miscellany of chairs, made sure there was plenty of wine on the table and served the salad.

 

As previously mentioned this was a simple combination of lettuce, wild garlic, cilantro and chives (complete with flowers) with creamy vinaigrette dressing.

Nice and light to just wake up the taste buds in preparation for what was to come.

 

 

 

 

 

All three Cassoulet ready to come out of the oven. (Note: this is a good illustration of why having a full 36" oven is so handy. We also have a regular sized oven which gets most use, but the big oven is ideal for times like this and for big birds and such. If you have kitchen space I encourage you to have one.)
The small white container in the foreground is the separate cassoulet I did for our friend who is gluten intolerant so couldn't eat the bread crumb crust.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the cassoulet getting served up.

We lucked out as after seconds we still had enough left for us to freeze and save
for a nice dinner for Linda & I sometime in the future.

 

 

 

 

After a suitable interval. i.e. more wine drinking the cassoulet had settled enough to allow room for dessert. This was apricot pie or strawberry pie brought by our friends from up the hill. Delicious with either crème Franche or ice cream.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A good time was had by all, much wine imbibed, much food eaten, many jokes told. Just as it should be!

 

HAPPY EATERS!!!

 

 

 

 

 

Cassoulet - Again, last of the season

 

Spring is really with us and is roaring away. Not cold, but blustery with periodic showers, some heavy. Ideal weather for cassoulet before it gets too hot. I've written up a detailed pictorial of my method of making this dish elsewhere on this blog so won't go into any detail this time. I will, however, share with you some shortcuts and variations I used for this one. These were necessary due my having none of the ingredients on hand and having to get the cassoulet prepared after only one day back from our holiday in Spain.

Since I last posted my gregarious wife has upped the number of guests to 18. Good thing I made what are in effect two cassoulet. (A third if you count the little individual one for our friend who can't eat flour.) Fortunately, another friend has agreed to do the dessert. Wonderful apricot tarts by a superb local patisserie. Here's a few pictures of the preparations:

 

 

 

 

 

Flowers for the table. These are straight from our garden. Linda is very good at setting a beautiful table and currently is delighted with all of the flowers from the garden.

 

 

Here's a view of the table. Long so we have to go across our dining room of get everybody in.

Since its going to be a messy meal there's no fancy linen for tonight, besides I don't think we have a cloth big enough anyway.

 

 

Further along now with plates on. The usual miscellany of chairs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

As a starter we're having a very simple salad. Baby lettuce, cilantro and a creamy vinaigrette, but sprinkled with wild garlic. Here's the garlic straight out of the ground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The cassoulet is ready to go back into the oven for a couple of hours having spent a good 4 hours in the oven yesterday.

 

 

 

 

Here they are. The biggie in its cassole and
a smaller one in my old green pot.

 

 

 

What did I do differently? Mainly the meats. I roasted two pork loin roasts with salt, pepper and fresh sage then cooled them and cut then into large bite sized chunks for putting in the cassoulet. I used about 3 lbs of lamb breast which I cut into ribs and browned. Then made a miripoix added the lamb back in & made a stew with lots of tomato puree, herbs de province & oregano. After cooking this for 2 hours I fished out the lamb and added the beans (which I'd boiled for 3/4 hour then let soak) ad garlic. This was allowed to simmer for 2-3 hours then cool.

I was now ready to assemble the cassoulet. A layer of bean, then pork, then beans, then lamb, then beans, then sausage, more beans and finally the comfit. Into the oven for 4 hours then out to rest.

 

So far so good. More later with picture if I have time, but a nap is in order right now so as to be
 rested for the evening's festivities.

 

 

Eating out & Messing around in the kitchen

 

 

Salad Time - Nicoise here we come!

 

Lamb - I love it!

 

As mentioned yesterday I went down the other day to watch Rob cut up our half a lamb. I've seen him do this before, but this time I took pictures. I promise that they're not too gruesome. Our half of a dressed lamb weighed almost exactly 10 kilo's (22 lbs); the other half slightly more as Rob hadn't cut exactly down the middle of the backbone.

 

Here's the whole half of lamb before any cutting. Rod has simply sawed the lamb in half ready to be cut into the cuts we would like.

 

 

 

 

Here are Rob's tools. As you can see a saw, a cleaver, two knives and a large barding needle. (you can look up barding if you don't know, I won't tell.)

 

 

 

Here's the whole hind leg separated from the front of the carcass. To the right is the leg after cutting the top bit.

 

 

 

 

This will all get boned out so that one has two leg roasts, ideal for us as we can use the smaller roast for the two of us and the larger will happily feed four to six people.

 

 

 

To the left you can see the two leg roasts in the foreground. In the bottom corner are the delicious kidney's.

Moving on from this Rod does the shoulder next. This is probably my favorite cut. In the shops & at the butcher's we normally just buy it whole then slow roast it, delicious. With Rob, however, I let him bone it out and tie it.

 

 

Unfortunately I didn't get a decent picture of the process of boning and tying the shoulder. The picture at right shows the end result.

 

 

 

 

Next came the breast which was carefully boned then rolled to make a really nice roast for two hungry people.

 

 

 

Here we are ready for doing the chops

 

 

The chops are first cut then chopped though the bone.

The end at the left which hasn't been cut as of yet is where the 'infamous' rack to lamb comes from. We don't both, but just go ahead a cut out the chops.

 

That's it really. Being an ex-master butcher Rob make it look easy. I still haven't figured our how he does his neat little knots that hold when he's tying the roasts. If we had more freezer space I'd buy a whole lamb so we could have a crown roast, but there are too many other things competing for space. Here's what was left of our half lamb.  

 

No bones you say? Well I now have about a quart of  delicious lamb stock that I made last night. All night in fact since I forgot to turn it off when I went to bed.

I tossed & turned until finally about 4 AM I remembered that I had forgotten. I was lucky it was still reducing, but not burning. I turned it off and went back to bed & slept well. I tested it this morning, added some water, let it simmer for a while longer, then passed it through a sieve.

Its resting in the fridge now ready to be degreased. Then frozen.

Thus, my tale of the latest lamb.

 

 

Panic!

 

This will be a short post just to say that I'll do something more robust tomorrow. The panic was today when I opened the program to write a blog post and all of the images had disappeared.

None in my header or in the body of the posts. Just the blank rectangles with the dreaded little red X's. I tried everything I could think of to fix it to no avail. Interestingly it was only my Frenchfoodfocus website that was affected; all of my other sites were Ok.

I even reinstalled the whole program to no avail. Finally, I went  through every menu item by item. Still no luck. Finally as I went through the toolbars I noticed a red X in a circle. Low & behold clicking this solved my problem!

My pictures were back. Whoopee! All was well. As I was at it I deleted that link thing for Tips that I had inserted over on the Left pane. It was sort of intrusive. They claimed it would bring in more hits, but if it did I couldn't see the difference.

Speaking of hits I'd like to get more & have more people read & comment on the blog. Please pass the message along to your friends if you would. Also, I'm open to suggestions; just Make a Comment

Tomorrow's blog with be a pictorial on my watching Rod cut up our spring lamb, I've commented on this before, but not with pictures. It not gory I promise you.

Until then?

 

 

I did remember to take pictures of dessert.

Looks good & tasted very good.

 

That's it! A nice lunch and good conversation. What more could one ask?

 

Perhaps a nap. See you later.

 

 

April 2009

 

Viva Espana!1 -- Ole!

 

Well, we just got back from our little vacation in Spain. A good time was had by all. The time share apartment that our friend's son had donated was fine, small, but nice & clean and close to everything in the resort town of Salou. We managed to find everything we needed without any difficulty and by and large the weather was good, especially for this time of year.

Unfortunately our friends had picked up a bad cold somewhere over the Atlantic so were not up to too much exploring. We did, however manage to find a really nice tapas bar just down the road from our apartment. We ordered a bottle of their house white wine and were shocked by what we got, It was an absolutely delicious chardonnay! Very fruity and light and just gorgeous! It tasted almost like a Sauvignon Blanc with muscles. Wow! is all I can say.

Our tapas were; calamari, gambas a la hijo, toasted bread, potatoes with a sauce to die for and chicken wings. All delicious, all perfectly done. They made a very nice meal indeed. We ordered some calamari & a half portion of potatoes for our friend who was feeling too bad to come with us. He was appreciative.

The next day we cooked. Nothing special, but it was fun to explore the local Supermarkets and notice what they did & did not have.  Also, the ladies scouted out a 'nice' restaurant for lunch the next day as our friends wanted to treat us to lunch seeing as it was my birthday. (72ond, I'm not coy.) They chose well!  The name of the restaurant was "Villa Alexander" and it is beautifully decorated and laid out. The ladies tell me that the rest rooms are superb, I didn't have occasion to use them so you'll have to take the expert's word for it.

The food lived up to the decor. The pick of the day was probably the sea bream that Linda had, gorgeous! All the starters and mains were good. My favorite was my dessert of lemon sorbet which was out standing. The wine list was long and I think outstanding. I say 'I think' because I'm no expert on Spanish wines, but it was long and seemed comprehensive. What I like about it was that the grape varieties used to make each wine were identified. Thus without knowing a lot I could choose a very nice Chardonnay (this one oaked, older and more substantial than our 'tapas' variety.) and a red from Cataluña which was a classic Bordeaux blend. (It turned out well, it was a 1998 and opened up very nicely.)

All in all a very nice meal over three hours in the Spanish style and much appreciated by the birthday boy.

More cooking at home followed. As our friends were still under the weather  Linda & I went on a short excursion to Tarragona. This seemed a really nice small city with some outstanding Roman ruins, a very interesting 'old town' and lots of nice shops. Worth a visit.

Next day we did a trip to the nearby mountains. This was spectacular, not totally good for me with my vertigo, but some truly great views. We climbed from the coast to well over 3,000 feet and, of course, back down. All were feeling better so we went back to the tapas bar for dinner. Just as good second time around. We added delicious mushrooms and roasted pork to the tapas repertoire and managed two bottles of their wine. They didn't have dessert, but offered various ice cream concoctions. A very enjoyable evening.

Back home today. As soon as we hit the French border it started raining and it still hasn't stopped. Still, its nice to be home and Rupert was very happy to see us even though he's being spoiled rotten by Linda's sister & her husband.

No rest for the wicked. Shopping tomorrow then Cassoulet for 14 people on Tuesday.

 

 

Buying Wine - Locally!

 

Our next set of guests is arriving shortly; in fact Linda has gone down to Toulouse to pick them up and should back any time now. Anyway, I looked and realized that we were out of our favorite local red wine so my brother-in-law and Rupert hopped in the car and we went to buy some.

We drove just up the hill no more than half a mile to the 'cave'. Now I have to be honest this isn't really local wine. It comes from further South near Carcassonne and is an AOC Minervois. The reason I say local is that our friend Paul sells it from a cellar on his farm complex. He sells it because his daughter is married to the vintner. Low overhead operation, but good wine. Down South they have close to 200 hectares of vines (around 500 acres) which is a big operation.

As usual as we drove up the dogs raced out to greet us and to alert everyone to our prescience. When they realized that Rupert was in the car the barking got even louder and Roop responded in kind. A good bark was has by all and honor was satisfied on all sides. Paul was nearby pruning some trees so he stopped and greeted us, I introduced Derek, my beau frère. I love that My beau frère, my good brother. Somehow it sounds nicer than brother-in-law.

In any case Paul took Derek off to see the gite he's created. (Its very nice, I've seen it before, and would be a good place for a holiday) Meanwhile Paul's Mother has come out to see what's going on so she and I went into the cave so I could buy the wine. Now, they have a whole selection of wines that they make at the vineyard. In bottles all the way from about 3.50 Euros up to around 15.00 Euros per bottle. When I normally buy, however, is the 10 liter boxes. They sell a 10 liter box of AOC Minervois red for 19.90 Euros. That's what I bought today. Works out at less than 1.50 Euros per bottle. Don't laugh because if I decant it into a nice looking container, let it breath for a while and serve it to you, you will be delighted at the quality. They also sell a chardonnay for about the same price. Its quality is amazing!  Not oaked of course as is the French custom, but absolutely delicious. Why pay more I ask?

Tour over, wine bought so with a last barking contest we were off. I do like buying wine here.

Sometime I'll describe buying wine at the wine shop over in Villefranche de Rouergue. No that's a long process if you're after a serious wine.

 

 

I apologize for the lack of pictures, but when I went to use it I discovered that our trusty Nikon's batteries were too low for picture taking.

In any case its not a particularly photogenic recipe, but do try it as its absolutely delicious.

 

 

Big Night Out!

 

Well, sort of. Our local restaurant, L' Auberge de La Castille was having a special meal yesterday evening so we went. We always wonder how Serge survives as a restaurateur since he normally doesn't have a lot of business. Its not that he's not a good chef because he isn't bad at all; its just that the menu seldom changes and isn't very adventurous to begin with.  Still, he has to depend upon local custom and the locals like the familiar. Anyway the Auberge is a pleasant enough place and Serge has recently done some decorating to spruce the place up.

The special meal was mules- frites. This is a great favorite both of the locals and  of ours. He had a full house for the evening, probably about 50 covers. The three course meal was 16 Euros. The started was a choice of a smoked salmon salad or a fois gras pate. I had the salad which was very good. Dessert was a chocolate gateau with a light mint sauce; again very tasty. The Moules and the frites were delicious and plentiful. Each table got two servings of both.

In addition we had live music. This was provided by an old gentleman who was a very good singer/ musician aided by two attractive ladies. The gentleman was, I think, someone who had in his younger days been well known throughout France, but was now retired. He was both good and professional. The ladies were, again I think, either his grown up daughters or, perhaps, a daughter and a Grand daughter. In any case both could sing well. Thus we had music throughout the evening, all French standards and easy to listen to. And, yes, he did have an accordion. This is somewhat of a standing joke among the local foreign community in that anytime the French get together like this there will be an accordion player. In this case he only used it once, mostly he played the keyboard or the drums.

Part of the crowd of diners were, obviously, his family. You could see the resemblance. As the evening wore on various of the family member got up to sing or to accompany the two lead singers. They were all good. By the end of the evening the tables had been cleared and pushed back and the dancing was going strong. We left about 12:30 AM and things were still in full swing.

Not bad for the wilds of France. It was a lot of fun and we got to have a chat with many of our local neighbors.

Kids go home tonight & their parents arrive. No rest for the wicked.

 

 

 

Getting Busy

 

My posts may start getting pretty erratic in the near future. Things are starting to get busy. We have a whole series of visitors arriving over the next days and weeks. The weather getting good and the visitors starting to come sort of go together; funny how that works. And good weather we've been having; it was up in the high 60's yesterday & today with sunny skies.

Currently we have our favorite niece and her fiancée staying with us. They're making plans for their wedding in June. HERE!! Don't ask why they want to get married in Franc, but they do. Should be a lot of fun. It won't be a big wedding only about 40 people in all. The Mayor will do the honors. (They were up at the town hall today sorting the incredible amount of paperwork it takes to get two English people married in France. Everything was OK except one form & Madam Bosc will be sorting that out.) As I write this they're up at the chateau trying to sort out how to get a wireless Internet connection out to where the marquee  will be for the dinner and dancing. (Our friends kindly offered the chateau grounds to the kids.) Tomorrow Bavo, who is doing the catering, is coming over to discuss menus. (Fortunately, I only have to cook for one main meal for about 20, I think.)

When the kids go home on Sunday we pick up our Niece's parents who are coming for a visit. They'll be with us for a few days until our friends arrive from the states. (Get this! Our friends sold their house in Spokane in a week and have now bought a bank repossession in the Bay Area. They are determined to make this visit so everything is in storage and they will move into their new house when they get back. What housing crisis?) They'll be with us for several weeks.

Shortly after they arrive, however, the four of us are going to Spain for a week while our in-law's baby sit Rupert our dog. Then back home for a while.

So, please bear with me and keep checking in if I don't get the time to put up many posts over the next few weeks. I'll be thinking about it, however and may have some things to say about Spain. After all I did live there many years ago when things were very different.

 

Free Food - Living off the land  

 

As those of you who have followed this blog for some time will know I'm a great believer in free food, that which one can forage for in our local countryside. I've posted, a couple of times I think, about Michael & I's forays in the fall for walnuts, apples, mushrooms and other goodies.

Now its springtime and things are growing again. You frequently see the French out walking the hedge rows and scouring the roadside ditches. They're looking for edible bounty. One of the local favorites in the spring is 'wild asparagus'. Its really not asparagus at all wild or otherwise, but it does look like skinny stalks of the real thing. It has a funny name in French; repariou.. something or other. Not only can I now spell it I can't pronounce it properly either.

Not that it matters since I don't like it. The locals rave about it. They steam it and pair it will hard boiled eggs and vinaigrette and pronounce it delicious.  Sorry neighbors, I just don't like it.

This week though our local farmer showed Linda a new wild plant to eat. She in turn showed me what to look for. Its a form of wild garlic. Its found along the sides of the road mainly on steep banks. One needs a tool to dig it our or the bulbs will break off. There's lots of it not far from our house so we went out the other evening and picked some. Our Niece has arrived from England and wants to try it so we'll go out again this evening.

 

Here's what it looks like as it comes out of the ground. 

A lot like spring onions except for the roots which are different.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's a close up of the bulb end.

Note the little modules growing around it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are the bulbs after cleaning up.

The nodules are clearly visible now. As you can see the roots are very long which is why a tool and a deal of care are needed to get them out of the ground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

All trimmed and ready to eat.

Just add a bit of salt and eat as is or chop them up and add to a salad.

Either way they're good. The taste is somewhere between that of a spring onion and mild garlic.

They are best eaten as soon as possible after picking we found.

 

 

 

 

Delicious!

I'm really pleased to have been introduced to a new wild free food. These will feature permanently on our Spring menu from now on.

 

By the way, remember the rules off foraging for wild food.

- Only take what you plan to eat.
                                                                                                              - Always left some to there will be seeds
                                                                                                                for  next year.

 

 

 

 

On a different topic entirely I was out in the garden taking a few pictures this morning so I thought I would share some of them with you.

 

Lets start with the Iris's that grow outside our bedroom window. As you can see they're just coming out.

 

Pretty aren't they? Won't be long until they're fully out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Close to the Iris's you can see the dill just starting to sprout after it's severe cutting back. It was huge last fall

 

 

 

 

Here's just one of our self seeding chives. It seems that no matter how much I decimate these poor little plants for use in the kitchen they just keep coming back.

As you can see here they've spread out of the flower bed and onto the gravel of the path. There are lots of them . This guy, however, is the largest.

Fortunately, they're not on a part of the path where they would get walked on.

 

 

 

 

 

My favorite! A tiny little thyme plant.

Like the chives they are very persistent. Their big brothers from past years have grown spindly and woody from my repeated cutting for the kitchen, but these little guys (and there are a lot of them) are doing well.

Little do they know what I have in store for them! They're one of my favorite herbs so I use thyme a lot.

 

 

I'm happy to say that my cilantro (coriander) and basil seeds are prospering. They're up and doing well.

 

 

 

A little rant and, no, its not an April Fool joke

 

Before I start ranting a brief word about Rupert. He's doing fine and will get his stitches removed later today. We had to switch him to an even larger lampshade when the bandage came off as he could just reach his stitches. He'll be a happy dog when the lampshade comes off in a few days time!

My rant. I've been noticing lately or, perhaps, its just annoyed me more as of late that a lot of English speaking people who live here in France seem to like to lace their writings and conversations with French words. It drives me nuts! Please speak one language or the other. The golden rule is to speak one language at a time. The one that you and whomever you are communicating with both speak best. Thus, I speak French with my French friends (unless their English is better than my French.) and English with my English friends. ( I did live in England for many years so am reasonably fluent.) And, yes, I speak American to my American friends.

Don't say "....."  just say I'll see you later if you're speaking or writing in English. I recently saw on one of the worst offenders blog the use of the French for swimming suit  (or bathing costume if you're English.) in the midst of a blog in English. It was the only French in the whole piece. Why? The same person also fairly recently did a whole list of all the euphemisms the French use for death or dead. Very interesting to somebody learning French I suppose, but not of much interest to the average English speaking audience. (Its not as if we don't have plenty of ways to say death or dying in English)

To me its sheer pretension. Its saying "look at me, I speak French" or "wow, I live over here and speak the language". Aren't I clever? My response is; so what? Don't you know its rude to drop words and/or phrases that your audience is unlikely to understand into any communication? This is especially pretentious when writing or speaking in your native language to an audience who are mainly natives of your home country.

There's a simple rule that most multi-national, multi-lingual people follow when in the company of others. You speak the most common language. If for example you have a group of five people from five countries and three speak French, two English, but four speak Spanish then you all try to speak Spanish. Logical, no? The same goes when writing; if you are writing in English, write in English not franglaise.

Enough ranting! You get my point.

There are some words or expressions, however, that defy expression in another language. I will now use one, its French, to describe the pretentious, arrogant and rude people I've been ranting about.

They are arriviste. Unfortunately, the word does not translate well, but if of the people I'm referring to should read this they may just understand.

 

 

 

 

An Apology! In my agitation over Rupert I forgot to upload this

post. Its a week late! Sorry.

 

Saturday - Stuff happens

 

Well as you can read below Friday was looking pretty good when I wrote up my thoughts for the day.

I duly picked up Rupert from the groomers. He seemed fine & looked good as always. I went downstairs and Rupert & linda went up to the kitchen so Rupert could have his dinner.

After that Linda took Roop outside so he could do whatever he had to do. Suddenly she burst in shouting "come quick! Rupert's sick! He had been vomiting, then running, then vomiting. Now he was down in our field just laying down. I rushed down to see what the problem was. He couldn't get up, poor lad. When I tried to pick him up I noticed that his stomach was very hard and he whimpered when I tried to raise him. So I just stroked him and talked to him while Linda called a neighbor to help carry him. Before the neighbor could arrive Roop managed to get up and let me lead him back to the house. It was obvious that he was in great pain even though like most dogs he was stoic about it.

After some difficulty we managed to reach Huguette our vet. She was on her way home from another call so came to our place on the way back. She quickly diagnosed what she thought was a twisted stomach. This is a very dangerous condition and Rupert could die very quickly if it isn't treated. Huguette gets a hold of the vet practice in Negropolisse where they have all of the necessary equipment.

Off we go, its a 45 minute drive. The vet there confirms Huguette's diagnosis after an X-ray and a ultra sound scan. He immediately went in for an operation. We're told to go away & come back in an hour. We do. We get back and the vet announces that all is well. Rupert did indeed have a twisted stomach, but they've turned it and sewn it to the muscles on his right ribs so it can't happen again. We're relieved as you can imagine.

We're sent home with the advice to have a glass of wine & relax than call the vet's at 10:00AM the next morning. Meanwhile we're trying to get through to our friends in Toulouse to let them know why we aren't there. Turns our our cell phone is dead so we have to wait until we get home to leave them a message.

Looking on the Internet we find that a twisted stomach is something that affects large dogs with deep chests like standard poodles, great Danes and German Sheppard's. No body seems to know what causes it, but all agree that it can kill a dog very quickly if not operated on immediately. We certainly can't think of any cause for Rupert to have this affliction.

Today we called & he was OK so went to get him. He was, obviously, very happy to see us and although subdued and under par seemed Ok. We got lots of instructions from the vet as to care & feeding over the next few weeks and, of course we got the dreaded collar so the Roop can't lick his wounds. It seems unfair, but I did take some pictures of him.

Not looking very happy. You can just see his bandage over his incision.

 

 

 

 

 

Here's a close up of his bandage. Its quite a long incision with a lot of stitches.

 

 

 

Here he is looking very sorry for himself and rightly so.

We'll nurse him for the next few weeks and hope there aren't any complications.

He's got to be in good shape by June as he's got a role as Best  Dog at our niece's  wedding.

 

 

Anyway so much for T.G.I.F. Our Friday didn't quite work our as planned. According to our friends the Flamenco was brilliant. Ah well.

 

Friday ramblings

 

Thank God It's Friday, but I no longer say that since I retired. Actually Friday's are pretty nice these days. This Friday certainly was a busy one.

First I took Rupert for his walk. Well, this was after Linda served me coffee in bed and I read the last bits of The Economist. Anyway, we just did  a circuit of the lake so Roop could do his stuff. Then we came home so he could have his breakfast before we left for Villefranche and the groomers.

This is the downside of poodle owning. They have to be clipped every 5-6 weeks. Its not cheap, but then when you think of how much hair there is to cut compared to a human it doesn't seem so bad. She spends 4 hours on him what with a bath & a blow dry before she even stats clipping. The shop is called Funky Toilettage, Toilettage being the French word for dog grooming. Rupert is conflicted when he goes in. One the one hand he adores the girl who clips him; on the other hand he hates having it done. (wouldn't you if you had to stand still for 4 hours.) So he greets her happily, but keeps his tail tucked between his legs. He looks at me accusingly as I leave.

I can't resist popping into the patisserie next door for a croissant, this one is filled with raspberry jam.  Very sinful, but good.

Back home I stop at the Post Office, mail my letter then go around the corner to our little Friday market. After greeting a few people I notice that one of the local goat farmers is selling aged Cabecou. I can't resist a bargain so I buy 6 for 4 Euros. Here's a picture.

 

Aren't they pretty.

The thing about aged Cabecou is that the taste gets sharper with age. The older the sharper. But they also get harder & harder with age. These are just right; nice and sharp, but still soft enough to be chewed.

I'm in heaven and Linda is reminding me of my diet so I only eat one. I'll try to restrict myself to one per day.

 

Back at home I decided that just a plain picture of the cheeses was a bit boring so since it is another beautiful day I decided to take some pictures in the garden. See what you think.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My somewhat feeble attempts at artistic poses for the cheeses. Still, I had fun trying to set them up.

 

Here are a few pictures of our more spectacular bushes that are in pretty  much full flower right now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm happy to say that this year Linda has caught the gardening bug. She done a huge amount of work in the garden. All I've done is to haul away the debris and a bit of digging when it was too heavy for her.

If all of her seeds take I think we'll open our own flower stand later this year.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'll take it easy for a while now then have lunch (Dare I try more Cabecou?) then I've got to pick up Rupert at two O'clock from the groomers. He'' be delighted to see me as always and will urge me to drive faster on the way home.

Linda will make a fuss of him which he loves then he'll water the garden and have a long nap as being groomed is hard work.

 

About four thirty we'll take off for Toulouse where we're meeting friends for dinner followed by a flamenco performance. Toulouse has a Flamenco Festival every year which attracts some of the top artists so we're expecting something pretty good.

We'll get home late, but having had a pretty nice day. Such is life in rural France.

 

 

Anticipation!

 

Surely Spring is coming; isn't it? Yesterday we thought it was here. The temperature was nearly 70 degrees and it was nice & sunny. Not so today, its overcast and quite a lot colder.

Linda, Rupert & I went down to the local lake to have a look.  

Here's Roop looking. Not sure that he's finding much.

 

 

 

 

A downed tree that hasn't been cleaned up as of yet.

 

 

                                                                                                         Then some very nice oak logs seasoning away.

 

 

 

 

 

Still the willows are trying to come out, but aren't quite there yet.

 

We love walking  around this lake so do so frequently. Its about a mile and a half around so it makes a nice walk. Rupert absolutely adores it as he can chase the ducks to his heart's content. No matter how hard he tries they just laugh at him. He never gives up though and is convinced that one day.... ! Of course I don't think he'd know what to do if he actually did catch one.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Even our local heron is waiting. I saw the pair of them the other day so we must be getting close.

They seem to stay at the lake all year around, but I've never spotted their nest or any young ones.

 

The little barn where they keep the boating stuff is sitting there ready to go.

I even saw a bunch of fisher men yesterday so the season must have started.

 

 

The cafe is looking forlorn and abandoned, but will liven up later in the year and serve delicious cheap meals, good local wine and Stella Artois beer. What could be better on a warm summer evening. Something to look forward to.

 

 

 

Looks like the heron has given up and flying off to who knows where. He'll be back though.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Linda and Rupert have also given up and are heading back to the car. Guess I'll join them. We'll try another day as Spring can't be long now.

 

Here's the village on the way home. Looks pretty good.

 

Once home we can console ourselves with the evidence that the garden is waking up.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Even though we know its too early for Spring in our part of France we can't help anticipating. Who wouldn't?

 

 

 

Lamb; as purchased locally

 

Every year about this time we get a call from Bernard Rossignol who runs his family's farm. Its time to buy our Spring lamb. We do this every Spring and for that matter every fall since Bernard manages to get two sets of lamb every year.

Half of his ewes are kept indoors in a huge barn while the rest are outside in the fields. The indoor ewes are the pregnant ones. They switch places roughly every six months. Indoors or out they're well fed and cared for. It still amazes me that Bernard manages to keep the barn so clean. His lambs are of course all milk fed by their mothers so they taste delicious. Some of you may object to this, but all I can say is even though they lead short lives they're good ones.

No, that's not Bernard with his lambs, but it might as well be. He's passionate about his sheep and his farm. When the time comes his lambs are driven off to a special organic humane abattoir for butchering.  He's very particular about the whole process.

 

Here's how the lamb is delivered. In a nice neat box. Our 1/2 lamb this year weighed 9.7 kg (just under 22 Lbs.) We only have freezer space for a half lamb otherwise we'd buy a whole one as its so good.

 

 

Here's how the lamb is packaged. These are packs with two or three chops in each pack. (Bernard will have the lamb cut up & packaged to your preference) The packs are all vacuum sealed and ready to go into the freezer.

 

 

As you can see at the right each package is carefully labeled.

The printing in Red is the standard data; the Abattoir name (SARL SALAS); their logo on the right; the 'grower (ferme de la Serin); the farm's registered number and at the bottom the keeping instructions (keep between 0 & 20 degrees).

The data in black is all of the variable data. The cut (cote= chop); the date it was butchered and the sell by date (without freezing); then the weight; followed by the lot number and finally the farm name & address.

Pretty complete data.

 

 

 

 

Here's the shoulder. Our favorite cut. This one weighs about six ponds and will be very slowly roasted with rosemary & garlic. Yummy!

 

 

Here's the leg. And its label.

 

We also got the breast & ribs and the abats (sounds better than the kidney's, liver & heart doesn't it?)

Finally, here a a couple of pictures of Bernard's brochure which he puts in every box.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We like buying locally and in this case we can see the farm up the hill from our house. The quality of his lamb is terrific. Besides we know spring is not far away when Bernard calls.

As an aside we had a nice chat with Bernard about the World Economic crisis. Most conversations seem to end up on that topic these days. He was very sorry for & sympathetic towards those economically distressed by this depression. At the same time as a farmer he hasn't been much effected.  The price of lamb is down marginally, but not enough to be a worry. He & his family are mostly self sufficient and their farm so don't need a lot of cash income to be OK. I think that's the situation for a lot of our neighbors. Another large lot are pensioners which here in France means that they're pretty well provided for.

A cute story involving Bernard & his family to end on. A few years back he arranged for this son, then about 12 years old, to go to Scotland and stay with our local friends Rob & Jean's sons & Daughter at their hotel & sheep farm in Balquidder. He had a great time & picked up quite lot of English from the farm lads, hotel kitchen workers and waiters. He came home & both he & his parents were quite proud of his newly learned language skills. Some time later our friend's son, Tom who runs the family hotel, came for a visit. Naturally, they were invited to Bernard's for a meal. As they arrived Bernard & his wife plus Bernard's Mother & father were there to greet them. The young son wanting to show off his English walked up to Tom and said; "Tom, you old S.O.B, how the f___k are you?" His parents were beaming & our friend trying to keep a straight face and the lads who'd taught him this 'english' were in big trouble when Tom got back to Scotland.

 

 

 

Everything, but the quack

 

I've had some correspondence recently with a lady in Washington state who has a farm where they raise ducks amongst other things. (see the comments section) They raise Muscovy ducks which I remember as mean spirited devils from years ago when we had a pair. In any case it got me to thinking about ducks in French culture and how important they are and how the French use every bit of the bird.

 

Here in France they raise mainly the Mulard breed of duck. I don't know enough about ducks to have an opinion as to which breed is better. I do know that locally we see fairly large flocks, 100 to 200, in fenced fields. What amazes us is the way that every bit of the bird is used, nothing goes to waste. Here's a catalog:

  • The liver. This of course ends up as the fabled fois gras.  Delicate, delicious and very expensive. We don't buy a lobe very often, but when we do its cooked very simply, served with good country bread toasted and local sweet dessert wine.
  • The breasts. Magret in French. A favorite dish of ours. Simply fried/baked, but kept rare with all of the fat rendered out of the skin which has been cut into a cross hatch then cooked slowly. The fat is poured off several times and saved. We serve Alliade de Toulouse with it. This is a sauce made of garlic and walnut oil. A single breast can way one pound.
  • The leg & thigh. Their are two main ways to use the cuisse as its called in French. One way is to just cook it; fried slowly or better yet combines with shallots, olives & garlic then cooked slowly in a covered pan.
    The main way to use cuisse., however, is to make confit. For confit the leg & thigh (plus other parts like the wings) are seasoned then cooked slowly in rendered duck fat. Stored in jars or cans these can be preserved for months. I must admit that we don't make it any more as it somewhat mess with all the fat and we can easily buy just as good if not better than our own locally. The cook it one simply wipes off most of the fat & fries it in a pan. Or its an essential ingredient of a Cassoulette.
  • The feather & down. These of course are cleaned and used to stuff duvets. Not quite as good a goose I'm told, but a lot less expensive.
  • The carcass. Again, there are two ways to use this. The first id to pick off all the remaining bits of meat and cook them slowly in the duck fat. (Usually done in conjunction with confit making) The results is called confit just as the leg/thigh is. The resulting paste is delicious spread on crusty country bread.
    Another way with the carcass is to fry it in duck fat then pick off all the little edible bits to eat. This is called friton.
  • Just to confuse things further there is another dish called friton which is a kind of rough pate made from the bits & piece of meat, kidney, skin & so forth. Can't say that I'm overly fond of it, but it does have the advantage of being cheap.


    Just when you thought there was no more there's the neck. Yes, it gets used as well here's a link to a recipe. By the way you should have a look at "Lucy's Kitchen" it a most wonderful food blog by an American lady who lives in Lyon. I only wish I could cook as well as she dos.

    That's it, there ain't no more duck left!
     

 

 

On the cheese again, just can't wait ..................

 

Those of you who have been following along with my recent health problems will know that one of the things I had to give up was cheese. Now, I love cheese and you will find a host of posts & pictures of cheese if you plow back through this blog. But orders are orders so no cheese since late December.

Last week, however I went for a check up with my cardiologist. He gave me a clean bill of health; good heart, good blood, good exercise and I've  lost around 12 pounds. As a result I'm back on the cheese again, but cautiously. This was why the cheese pictured below caught my eye. (well that & the fact that it was on sale)

As you can see its called Lacandou and is made from raw sheep's milk. What you can't see too well in the picture is that it show two measurement of the materiel grasse or fat content. Its a law in France that the fat content be published on the label of the cheese. What's unusual here is the fact that there are TWO measurement whereas normally there is only ONE. I was intrigued so did some research.

It turns out that you can measure the fat content of cheese in two different ways. The percentage fat in the normal cheese after its made is one way. The other way is to measure the fat content as a percentage of the weight of the dry solids in the cheese. It is this second measurement that is required to be shown by law. Its logical if you think about it since the fat percentage of the total weight will vary with the age of the cheese because the cheese will lose water weight as it ages. Dry weight on the other hand won't vary.

So, now you (and I) know what 55% mat. gr means when we see it on a French cheese label. We also know what it means when there are two percentages shown. And we know that the lower (28% in this case) measurement if shown is the fat content of the whole cheese. Now, this is something that you probably didn't care whether you knew it or not, but I find it comforting to know that the cheese I just ate is only 28% fat, not the 55% I thought it was.

The Lacandou by the way was a sort of so so cheese. Smooth and nice enough, but no real character. Maybe I should have let it ripen some more before eating.

In the course of my investigation I turned up some nice websites dedicated to cheese. Her for you edification and use are a few of them:

www.frencheese.co.uk.  A very comprehensive site. I think it was done to encourage the British to eat more French cheese. In any case its a nice resource.

www.fromages.com. Not as comprehensive, but good. Its a commercial site where you can buy cheese.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_French_cheeses. Can't leave out Wikipedia can I? Not as good as I would have hoped, but there are some very interesting articles on individual cheese.

 www.frenchcheese.dk. Nice site by someone in Denmark. Obviously a labor of love and very useful.

http://about-france.com/cheese.htm. All kinds of information about France, but I do like their cheese section as it has good information in a concise form.

Probably more than you ever wanted to know about French cheese, but its one of my passions so bear with me.

 

 

Sunday Lunch on a cold day

 

Spring keeps trying, but its not quite here yet. Yes, our bulbs are up and in flower which is nice and I mowed the lawn for the first time yesterday, but still today was cold. So we had four friends over, got the fire place going and cooked a comforting lunch.

Linda made carrot soup with cumin & crème fraiche to get us going. It was lovely, nice and warming.

I made poule au pot. Normally this is chicken boiled in a pot with a range of vegetables then cooked in the stock from the chicken. Certain purists will insist that it be made with an old hen past her time and that it be cooked for days. They like to try to place a lot of mystique around the dish when in reality its a good old fashioned simple country dish with a lot of variations. Why make life complicated and why try to make the dish so that nobody who lives outside of France can duplicate it? So, here's what I did:

I used young roosters (cocquetes) instead of an old chicken. I did this because in France old chickens are expensive  and it would have taken two of the to feed 6 people. I could buy 3 little roosters for a lot less money. If I were outside of France I would use whatever type of whole chicken is cheap. So, I boiled by little guys for about 10 minutes in plain water then added the herbs (bay leaf, thyme and rosemary) and boiled them for 15 more minutes. Because of my diet I used some artificial salt sparingly. (normally you should just lightly salt the stock.} After this 25 minutes of boiling I took the chicken out to cool. Once they were cool enough to handle I cut them in half down the backbone then peeled off the skin and removed the backbone and ribs so I have the boneless carcass with the legs, thighs and wings attached.
All the bones went back into the pot and got gently boiled for another hour. The meat got a bit of stock over it and was then covered to rest.

While this was going on I prepared the vegetables. Carrots (peeled) whole, leeks cut into long lengths, onions peeled (for 6 people I used 2 largish onions and cut them into 3rds), butternut squash peeled and cut into large chunks, a Savoy cabbage cur into 6 and 12 good sized mushrooms.

When the stock was ready I  skimmed off as much fat as possible (these little roosters didn't have much) let it cool for while then strained it through paper towels - twice. This was all in advance in the morning.

About half an hour before serving I brought the stock back up to the boil and added all of the vegetable except the mushrooms. Everything boiled for 15 minutes and then I added the mushrooms and boiled for another 10 minutes. As I put the mushrooms in I also turned the heat on under the chickens so as to reheat them.

In this case we served half a chicken to each person, dipped out all of the veggies into two big tureens and let people serve themselves. To go with the poule au pot we served a big pot of Dijon mustard and a pot of Cornichons (little French pickles) These accompaniments are absolutely essential and really make the dish!
You'll find that the mustard is delicious with this dish and that the pickles enhance the flavors nicely.

Just the thing for a cold Sunday afternoon. Filling yet not at all calorific. Delicious and easy to make if you don't do a fussy version.

We had a really nice dessert of dried apricot pureed and baked it a timbale sort of custard. Good, but low calorie. I'm getting better at these 'healthy' meals. I think?

 

Saving money in hard times - Cheap wine.

 

I was reading somebody's blog today and they were going on about inexpensive wines here in France. They were only paying 5 Euros (about $6.25) a bottle at a local wine coop. I guess they're richer or less in tune with French ways than I since I don't find 5 Euros a bottle cheap. Not by French standards anyway.

Now, 75 centimes a bottle is cheap. That's for a nice Minervois red. Their chardonnay is about 1.20 Euro per bottle. This I get from Paul who lives up the hill. He gets it from his son-in-law who has a winery down near Carcassonne. There has to be a catch - right. Well. yes there is. I'm buying this wine in a box. The same wines in a bottle would cost a lot more, but still nowhere near 5 Euros a bottle.

Now, if I decant either of these wines and serve them as I do to guests who know their wines I get nothing but praise. Everyone likes them because they are nice wines. Not top Bordeaux or Chablis, but very nice acceptable wines that I am happy to serve. I've even served them to food writers & restaurant reviewers with good results. When serving them I just say where they're from and never mention the price.

Now, I also know that things are different back home in the states. Boxed wine have a deservedly bad reputation. I can't believe, however, that somebody out of the 1,00's of winery's in the states isn't putting some good wine in boxes. The trice is to find it. Also, there should be at least a few importers bringing in good boxed wine from Europe. I'd encourage you to look and sample.

You might just save a bunch of money.

 

Southwestern French cooking - A Paula Wolfert evening

 

Yesterday my friend Michael and I decided to do a dinner based upon recipes from Paula Wolfert's excellent book "The Cooking of Southwestern France". I've used this book quite a lot, but it was new to Michael. Along with "Goose Fat & Garlic" I think its the best book around for our regional cuisine.

Given my dietary restrictions I had to choose the recipes carefully to avoid as much fat & sugar as possible. I ended up with three dishes. "The Archbishops Tourain', 'Michael Guérard's Pureed Celery Root with Apples' and 'Batter Cake with Fresh Pears'. These meet my criteria which isn't easy given the richness of French cooking in the region. They also satisfied a long standing desire to find out what could be made from celery root other than remoulade. I also wanted to try the batter cake as if successful it could make the base for a variety of fruit topped desserts.

Michael agreed the menu and we headed off the the Sunday market at Limogne to buy our ingredients. Limogne is one of our favorite markets so we go on most Sundays. Yesterday the weather was nothing to brag about and as its a school holiday next week there were a number of missing stalls. (Lots of market stall holders take a break this time of year especially those who are local growers since they don't have a lot to sell at end of winter.) Still there were plenty of stalls to choose from.

For the Tourain we needed duck  confit. This was easy at the charcouterie. We got 4 nice leg-thighs (cuisses) and a bit of extra fat. The vegetables we needed were easy; nothing special there. 

There was ,as always, lots of celery root for sale. We just had to make sure that we got celeri-rave , not celeriac. They look fairly similar, but aren't the same thing at all. Next we needed sweet apples. Paula calls for Red Delicious which are easy to find in the states, but no known here in France. Or at least I don't think so. Never fear as there are more varieties of apple in France than there of cheese. (believe it or not!) and Limogne market has THE APPLE LADY. This lady, well into her 70's if not 80's, stocks about 15-20 varieties of apples and is a font of knowledge. Since the apples called for are sweet that's what I asked for. She recommended a large beautiful looking variety at first, but when I said they would be cooked she switched me to another variety. These were huge, yellow and firm. (I bough an extra one for tasting. They were indeed sweet and very delicious)

The next thing we needed was rye bread and I knew just where to get it. My favorite bread stand has a nice selection of all kinds of bread (if fact if you go into their shop in Villefranche the selection is superb, great cakes & pastry as well, but not the elaborate fancy stuff). In any case she had half a loaf of dark rye left. I wanted her to slice it along the long direction as I could have 4 slices, but she didn't want to do that as it would have left her an unsalable lump. So, she cut it in half the other way & I got a quarter loaf.

( An aside: When shopping at market in France don't be afraid to ask for a half or even a quarter loaf of bread if that's all you need or if the smaller size loaf you wanted is sold out. Also, you can take of of the bunch & buy a single stalk of celery if you so desire. Because these things are sold by weight you can within reason buy the quantity you like. Took me a while to realize this and to p-luck up the courage and the French to do it!)

The next item we needed was you pears; again we wanted sweet ones. Again I was able to ask a stall holder for advice. This lady said one variety was sweeter, but I'd have to keep them at room temperature for 4 days to bring out the sweetness. Another variety she had was sweet enough for immediate use.

We picked up our other bits & bods and headed for the cafe for a coffee. Some brave souls were drinking outside (the smokers I suspect), but we went in & chatted to some casual friends we only see at market. Then off to home again. Michael & I arranged to meet at his place later to do all of our preliminary cooking.

You can easily look up the recipes in Paula's book so I won't go over them in any detail here. I will, however, make a few comments:

  • The Tourain didn't thicken up much when we added the egg/vinegar combination. Don't know why. Perhaps we should have reduced the soup a bit more earlier in the recipe.
  • We tried to be clever and form the celery/apple mash into patties & fry them just before serving. It didn't work! So much for our brilliant ideas.
  • Our 'cake' didn't rise nearly as high as we expected. After Paula's write up we were expecting something pretty high, but we didn't get it. The other thing with the cake was that it definitely wants the sugar sprinkling over it to bring out the flavour. We left it off in deference to my diet.
     

All in all this meal turned out well. The cooking was straightforward and the results were good. Our wives enjoyed it which is pretty good going. Another aspect of this menu that I liked was that we were able to do all the preparation in advance. In fact the cake had to be rested for a couple of hours. This enabled up to do our prep, have some time off cooking, change clothes and have a rest.

We returned to Ruvé & Michaels about 6:30 and played poker for a while before putting the cake in the over. We played for a while more then quickly finished off the soup & the celery root. By the time we ate that dessert was ready.

All in all a successful experiment that we had a lot of fun doing.

 

 

 



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

March

Getting Busy

 

My posts may start getting pretty erratic in the near future. Things are starting to get busy. We have a whole series of visitors arriving over the next days and weeks. The weather getting good and the visitors starting to come sort of go together; funny how that works. And good weather we've been having; it was up in the high 60's yesterday & today with sunny skies.

Currently we have our favorite niece and her fiancée staying with us. They're making plans for their wedding in June. HERE!! Don't ask why they want to get married in Franc, but they do. Should be a lot of fun. It won't be a big wedding only about 40 people in all. The Mayor will do the honors. (They were up at the town hall today sorting the incredible amount of paperwork it takes to get two English people married in France. Everything was OK except one form & Madam Bosc will be sorting that out.) As I write this they're up at the chateau trying to sort out how to get a wireless Internet connection out to where the marquee  will be for the dinner and dancing. (Our friends kindly offered the chateau grounds to the kids.) Tomorrow Bavo, who is doing the catering, is coming over to discuss menus. (Fortunately, I only have to cook for one main meal for about 20, I think.)

When the kids go home on Sunday we pick up our Niece's parents who are coming for a visit. They'll be with us for a few days until our friends arrive from the states. (Get this! Our friends sold their house in Spokane in a week and have now bought a bank repossession in the Bay Area. They are determined to make this visit so everything is in storage and they will move into their new house when they get back. What housing crisis?) They'll be with us for several weeks.

Shortly after they arrive, however, the four of us are going to Spain for a week while our in-law's baby sit Rupert our dog. Then back home for a while.

So, please bear with me and keep checking in if I don't get the time to put up many posts over the next few weeks. I'll be thinking about it, however and may have some things to say about Spain. After all I did live there many years ago when things were very different.

 

Free Food - Living off the land  

 

As those of you who have followed this blog for some time will know I'm a great believer in free food, that which one can forage for in our local countryside. I've posted, a couple of times I think, about Michael & I's forays in the fall for walnuts, apples, mushrooms and other goodies.

Now its springtime and things are growing again. You frequently see the French out walking the hedge rows and scouring the roadside ditches. They're looking for edible bounty. One of the local favorites in the spring is 'wild asparagus'. Its really not asparagus at all wild or otherwise, but it does look like skinny stalks of the real thing. It has a funny name in French; repariou.. something or other. Not only can I now spell it I can't pronounce it properly either.

Not that it matters since I don't like it. The locals rave about it. They steam it and pair it will hard boiled eggs and vinaigrette and pronounce it delicious.  Sorry neighbors, I just don't like it.

This week though our local farmer showed Linda a new wild plant to eat. She in turn showed me what to look for. Its a form of wild garlic. Its found along the sides of the road mainly on steep banks. One needs a tool to dig it our or the bulbs will break off. There's lots of it not far from our house so we went out the other evening and picked some. Our Niece has arrived from England and wants to try it so we'll go out again this evening.

 

Here's what it looks like as it comes out of the ground. 

A lot like spring onions except for the roots which are different.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's a close up of the bulb end.

Note the little modules growing around it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here are the bulbs after cleaning up.

The nodules are clearly visible now. As you can see the roots are very long which is why a tool and a deal of care are needed to get them out of the ground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

All trimmed and ready to eat.

Just add a bit of salt and eat as is or chop them up and add to a salad.

Either way they're good. The taste is somewhere between that of a spring onion and mild garlic.

They are best eaten as soon as possible after picking we found.

 

 

 

 

Delicious!

I'm really pleased to have been introduced to a new wild free food. These will feature permanently on our Spring menu from now on.

 

By the way, remember the rules off foraging for wild food.

- Only take what you plan to eat.
                                                                                                              - Always left some to there will be seeds
                                                                                                                for  next year.

 

 

 

 

Another recipe and a look at the mainly edible part of the garden

 

First the recipe. We've gotten into the habit of playing poker with out friends most Friday or Saturday evenings. (shows we're getting old, I guess) We all enjoy it even though we don't play for money, just the prestige of having the most chips at the end of play. We also share a 'simple' supper. Last night it was our turn to provide the meal.

We did asparagus as a starter with the classic Hollandaise sauce. The asparagus is now into season and is delicious. As a main course we roasted a chicken with lots of garlic and herbs de Province and served it with roast potatoes, cauliflower and broccoli. All very nice and very simple.

I had been thinking about another low calorie dessert and here's what I came up with. I call it Poker Pears.

Ingredients:

  • One pear per person
  • 1/2 bottle of sweet white wine
  • cinnamon, nutmeg & ginger
  • fake sugar (I use the Sweeta stuff) or regular sugar
  • One scoop of vanilla ice cream per person
  • Walnut meat
  • Maple syrup 

Method:

  1. Trim the ends of the pears; peel them; cut them in half lengthways and cut out the core.
     
  2. In a pan just large enough to hold the pears (cut side down) pour in the sweet wine and the spices (let you taste buds guide you as to how much of the spices to use. I normally use a ratio of 2 parts cinnamon to 1 part nutmeg and 1 part ginger).
    Add water to just cover the pears; bring to a simmer and simmer (covered) until the pears are soft. This should take 20-30 minutes. Test with a skewer to gage doneness.
     
  3. While the pears are cooking take the ice cream out of the freezer and let it soften up a bit. While that's happening toast the walnut meat in the oven. Once toasted & cooled chop the walnut coarsely.
     
  4. Measure out the ice cream then mix it with the chopped walnuts and the maple syrup. (about a generous tablespoon per scoop of ice cream. Mix all together until the syrup & nuts are well distributed. Cover the bowl and return to the freezer.
     
  5. When the pears are cooked remove them from the cooking liquid using a slotted spoon. Put the pears and the cooking liquid in the fridge to chill.
     
  6. When ready to serve place two pear halves on a plate; top them with a scoop of the ice cream and serve the poaching liquid separately in small cups. A spring of mint looks nice on top of the ice cream.

This is a lovely combination that is both easy to make and not very calorific. You can of course use low fat ice cream to keep the calories down.

On a different topic entirely I was out in the garden taking a few pictures this morning so I thought I would share some of them with you.

 

Lets start with the Iris's that grow outside our bedroom window. As you can see they're just coming out.

 

Pretty aren't they? Won't be long until they're fully out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Close to the Iris's you can see the dill just starting to sprout after it's severe cutting back. It was huge last fall

 

 

 

 

Here's just one of our self seeding chives. It seems that no matter how much I decimate these poor little plants for use in the kitchen they just keep coming back.

As you can see here they've spread out of the flower bed and onto the gravel of the path. There are lots of them . This guy, however, is the largest.

Fortunately, they're not on a part of the path where they would get walked on.

 

 

 

 

 

My favorite! A tiny little thyme plant.

Like the chives they are very persistent. Their big brothers from past years have grown spindly and woody from my repeated cutting for the kitchen, but these little guys (and there are a lot of them) are doing well.

Little do they know what I have in store for them! They're one of my favorite herbs so I use thyme a lot.

 

 

I'm happy to say that my cilantro (coriander) and basil seeds are prospering. They're up and doing well.

 

 

 

A little rant and, no, its not an April Fool joke

 

Before I start ranting a brief word about Rupert. He's doing fine and will get his stitches removed later today. We had to switch him to an even larger lampshade when the bandage came off as he could just reach his stitches. He'll be a happy dog when the lampshade comes off in a few days time!

My rant. I've been noticing lately or, perhaps, its just annoyed me more as of late that a lot of English speaking people who live here in France seem to like to lace their writings and conversations with French words. It drives me nuts! Please speak one language or the other. The golden rule is to speak one language at a time. The one that you and whomever you are communicating with both speak best. Thus, I speak French with my French friends (unless their English is better than my French.) and English with my English friends. ( I did live in England for many years so am reasonably fluent.) And, yes, I speak American to my American friends.

Don't say "....."  just say I'll see you later if you're speaking or writing in English. I recently saw on one of the worst offenders blog the use of the French for swimming suit  (or bathing costume if you're English.) in the midst of a blog in English. It was the only French in the whole piece. Why? The same person also fairly recently did a whole list of all the euphemisms the French use for death or dead. Very interesting to somebody learning French I suppose, but not of much interest to the average English speaking audience. (Its not as if we don't have plenty of ways to say death or dying in English)

To me its sheer pretension. Its saying "look at me, I speak French" or "wow, I live over here and speak the language". Aren't I clever? My response is; so what? Don't you know its rude to drop words and/or phrases that your audience is unlikely to understand into any communication? This is especially pretentious when writing or speaking in your native language to an audience who are mainly natives of your home country.

There's a simple rule that most multi-national, multi-lingual people follow when in the company of others. You speak the most common language. If for example you have a group of five people from five countries and three speak French, two English, but four speak Spanish then you all try to speak Spanish. Logical, no? The same goes when writing; if you are writing in English, write in English not franglaise.

Enough ranting! You get my point.

There are some words or expressions, however, that defy expression in another language. I will now use one, its French, to describe the pretentious, arrogant and rude people I've been ranting about.

They are arriviste. Unfortunately, the word does not translate well, but if of the people I'm referring to should read this they may just understand.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 February  2009   

 

Cheap eats in hard times

We drove down to Caussade today so I could have some blood tests done in preparation for my big Doctor's appointment next week. (I hope the results are good, I'm tired of being sooo good about my diet. Still, I've lost 14 pounds and my blood pressure is now near perfect so its been worth it) Anyway we took a walk around town, stopped at the post office then went for a cup of coffee.

As we sat there, outside as it was the first warm day in a while, I started studying the large menu posted on the wall. As I looked at it it dawned on me that given the prices we could afford to eat lunch out even in these straitened times. A faux fillet steak with french fries was 9 € ($11.25). You could have a nice portion of cassoulet for the same price. Or you could have the 'carte de jour' for 12€ ($15.00) which would get you a choice of two starters, charcouterie or a salad with magret, a choice of three main courses, faux filet, a pork stew or sea bass with vegetables, Cheese and dessert. Now in my book that's pretty good for the price. AND, you know that it will be good. The French won't put up with poorly cooked food.

As I thought about that I realized that what I was seeing was pretty normal for this part of France. There are at least 4 other places in Caussade where I could get something similar for about the same price; Caussade being a town of no more that 10,000 people I would guess. This in turn led me to think that even in hard times its nice to be able to afford to eat our occasionally, to eat well if simply. Maybe the decor isn't much to look at and the service isn't flashy, but everything is clean and friendly, the other patrons are usually interesting and you leave satisfied.

Further rumination let me to think about other countries we've lived in and to remember that all of them had similar places where one could get a satisfying meal at a reasonable price. In Rhode Island it was "The Middle of Nowhere Diner" (great fish & chips for $5.00). In California it was "Plaza Linda" in Carmel Valley Village. (great Mexican) In England it was one of any number of pubs. And so on; there was always somewhere.

So  I guess my question to anyone reading this is: Where are your places like that? I'd like to hear from you about them.

To continue my story; we didn't eat there, but headed towards home because on the drive down I'd noticed that a little restaurant in Caylus was doing faux filet also for 9€. We happen to know that his steak is of exceptional quality & served with great sautéed potatoes. Two steak & 1/2 a liter of red wine for 20 Euros 50 centimes; pas mal as they say here.

And while there we met a Belgian couple with a puppy. One thing led to another and we were invited for coffee at their tiny cafe on the village square. Turns out she's a very accomplished artist and they gave us a DVD of her retrospective exhibition. Fascinating stuff, but that's another story.

Who said life in rural France was boring? Certainly not us!

 

 

 

A new Toy helps us get home

 

Before heading back home to France from England we bought ourselves a new toy. We'd been talking about getting one for quite a while and now seemed the time since I'm banned from driving so Linda was going to have to do all the driving on the way home. So, we bought ourselves a satellite navigation system. The brand name we bought in England is Tom Tom. It was easy to fit in the car and the maps covered all of England and Europe.

I must say that its a bloody marvelous device! It took us through England & France right to our doorstep and on the way guided us to both of our hotel and then back on to our route flawlessly. It is very easy to programme, the display is clear and the vocal instructions are very clear. Best of all it makes a noise when you exceed the posted speed limit. This was a real boon with Leadfoot, A.K.A. Linda, driving as she does have a tendency to push it a bit. Like she prefers to drive at 100 MPH on the Autoroute instead of the limit  of about 80 MPH. This used to be constant source of dissention, but now the 'voice' keeps her in check. It was the most peaceful journey we've taken in a long time.

We stopped at two hotels on the way home making the trip very easy. Both turned out to be good choices. The first was called Le Buffet in Isbergues. ( link here) This is roughly half an hour from Calais so is a good stop whichever way you're heading. Its about 10 minutes off the autoroute and across from the railway station. Nice & quiet though,

Our room was fine, fairly small, spotlessly clean & with a nice modern bathroom. The restaurant was a joy. Two large nicely decorated dining rooms plus an entry area/cocktail lounge. We had the middle set menu at 30 Euros. Nice amuses, followed by a trio of little 'pots' with soup in two & a foam in the other. Very tasty. For our entree we both had a delicious apple, ham & cheese concoction which was both beautiful yo look at & delicious. Our entree was wonderfully poached cod with vegetables. (notice that I'm being good here as I was solely tempted by the steak.) The pre-dessert was chocolate three ways followed by dessert proper which was a pear tart with ice cream. All very good and well presented. We could have had a cheese course included in the price, but abstained for health reasons. All in all a very nice meal for the price. Rupert was much admired & behaved himself.

The next night we stayed at the White Horse (Le Cheval Blanc. Here's the link.) This is between Orleans & Verizon about 15 minutes off the autoroute. (check out the really cute map on their website) We has a nice room on the court yard at the back of the hotel. A nice room, clean as we've come to expect in France with a good bathroom. It was great for us as it turned out that just behind the hotel as a large park with ponds full of ducks, Rupert was in heaven running & chasing.

Dinner was very good. A 22 Euro menu brought us a nice soup with escargot wrapped in bacon around the sides. This was followed by a rich cut of venison with pate, vegetables and an intense sauce. We skipped cheese, but had dessert which was a baked apple with a kind of butterscotch sauce. A very nice meal and very satisfying. Not quite up to the standard of the previous evening, but that was truly exceptional.

Le Buffet will get its first star soon. You heard it here first!

Anyway, an easy drive on home the next morning to arrive at a house with no central heating and no telephone. You may have seen stories on the news about the high winds in France. That did in the phone, but the heating was another story for another time. We were able to borrow oil filled radiators from friends and got the wood burning stove going full blast.

Despite that it was good to be home.

 

Should have known better

 

I'm a slow learner I guess. We drove up to England all in one go. Leaving home in the evening, crossing under the channel in the very early morning and making it up to our in-laws by noon. Not a good idea! 
After a nap we had dinner. Then I went funny again; yep another stroke. I just wanted to go to bed & did, but everybody else called for an ambulance. They carted me away to the hospital in Leeds.

The English are just as bad as the French in that they kept me in for the same amount of time. Had an MRI scan this time before they let me out. The English doctors out prescribed the French as I now have 6 pills to take every morning. We'll se how that goes as now we're back home I'm going to see my French GP this afternoon' I'm sure that Dr. Jean will prescribe at least as many things as the English.

Its an interesting experience being in the hospital in two different countries one after the other; especially for one who hasn't been in hospital for over 40 years. I must say that the staff in both hospitals were great. Very caring and competent. Believe it or not the food in the English hospital was better than in the French. That's not saying a lot, but it was defiantly better, at least partially because the French had me on a no salt, no fat diet. The French hospital was much newer than the English one, two bed rooms as opposed to wards, but the English one seemed to be better equipped. Possibly because it was a much larger hospital. Although I hope not to see either hospital again, I have no complaints, both treated me very well.

Now that I'm a stroke 'veteran'  I find it notable that at no point did I feel bad for more than a very short time, tired yes, but not in pain or discomfort. Both episode lasted but a few minutes and then I was back to 'normal'. No pain, but tired feeling. I did suffer from some numbness in the right side of my face which has now gone away and some blurriness of vision in my right eye which also seems to be slowly lessening. Otherwise I seem to be OK. I think I've been lucky and have had two good warming shots without too much damage. I'll be good from now on regarding what I eat and drink.

Although I don't recommend it having strokes & spending time in hospital turns out to be a great weight loss program. I've lost between 10-12 pounds since this began. I'm down to 186 lbs which is close to where I need to be. If I can keep between 180 & 185 that will be ideal. In addition to the hospital regime I've been sticking to a low fat, low sugar diet. Lots of vegetables, modest meat portions, no cheese (this is very hard). no deserts and only one small glass of wine per day. I guess I'll get used to it.

I'll start experimenting with recipes that fit within this regime soon and if I come up with anything edible I'll let you know.

I've got a lot to report other than my health problems; but I'll save it for tomorrow. Meanwhile, I'm glad to be back home!

 

 

January 2009   

 

A slight hiccup!

 

Sorry I haven't been around for the past few days. Unfortunately, I've been languishing in the hospital over in Villefranche. A matter of having a slight stroke. Ah well; they treated me well.

Actually by the time my friend Rob had driven me over to the hospital I was feeling OK again, but he & Linda convinced me that I should let them check me out. Well French medicine is nothing if not through, but it was Saturday afternoon wasn't it? So, nothing much happened the rest of the day.  Then it was Sunday so nothing happened again except for getting my pills & the duty doctor coming by. The nurses kept good care of me though. Monday, there was a delegation of Docs. The Duty Doc, a Cardiologist and the head Cardiologist. They told me what they thought & promised lots of tests - but starting Tuesday! They were in no hurry to get rid of me. Monday no lunch, but a CAT scan of my head in the afternoon. The kind nurses gave me coffee when I got back. ( it was sort of neat being wheeled around by this orderly who was the spitting image of the actor who played Morris in the '24' series on TV) The next day I had my first Ultrasound scan. By now I'm champing at the bit to get out, bored stiff. I mean how much one read & French TV - forget it!. Wednesday the honcho cardiologist with an student in tow reappeared. One last scan and I'm free if its good. It was and I was out! Whoopee!!!

Seriously I think if one must be ill France is a good place to do it. They couldn't have been nice or more through. One of course none of this cost us a penny as we're fully into the French health system.

We're off to England later today, dropping off the dog with our niece in Harrogate, then flying to Florida for a two week break. We're staying at the second home of some friends so I don't know if I'll have access to a computer & the net. If so I'll try to do some posts, but if I'm quiet for a while you'll know why.

 

Cravings

 

In my Christmas musings I was going on about how if you missed something from 'home' you should try to recreate it yourself. Well I believe that. And every so often I do get cravings for things from the states.

In this case it was cheese cake. I've never eaten lots of cheese cake even when I could, but I do like it. And maybe its like a lot of other things; if you can't have them you want them all the more. In any case suddenly nothing would do but that I had to have cheese cake. For all I know if you look you can buy cheese cake in France. I've never looked very hard. Doesn't matter in this case because nothing was going to satisfy unless I made it myself.

It was a bit of a struggle, but fun. The result was good in fact so much so that certain friends claimed it was the best they'd ever had and begged for the recipe. So, here is the recipe. A pretty good cheese cake if I do so AND makeable here in France. Sorry no pictures.